Monday, 14 July 2025

Moorea to Huahine

Hi everyone,

After six nights in Moorea we sailed overnight to Huahine.  Both are in the Societies but Moorea is in their Windward and Huahine in their Leeward Islands.  It was a good 90nm sail in gradually decreasing wind and seas.  For much of the passage we were expecting two gybes but as we approached Huahine the wind backed nicely for us.

On a free mooring off La Mahana resort

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival Track

Graphs

The seas were lumpy and the swell confused as we sailed away from Moorea.  We could see swells coming from both sides, looping around both sides of the island.  Once clear of that mess the seas calmed and we had a nice broad reach under minimal sail so as to arrive after dawn.  We were doing 5 knots under double-reefed (triasail sized) main and triple furled yankee.

Go West!
OCC sv Nimue departed an hour after us and passed us late afternoon heading for Raiatea.  US sv Wanderlust also left Moorea and we chatted with them on VHF.  They said they were heading to Avea Bay in Huahine like us, but ended up in Bora Bora.  They probably didn't have enough buckets to slow them enough.

Sunrise over Huahine

While motoring along outside the reef in the lee of the island we saw several whales breaching.  Always a treat at a suitable distance!  Then in the pass we were escorted by dolphins.  Once inside we motored S inside the reefs to Avea Bay.  It's quite a scenic trip and well marked.  Navionics SonarCharts seem very accurate and much more detailed than the official Navionics charts.

Entering the Huahine pass

We arrived in the Bay late morning and set to work tidying up the boat and launching the dink.  After lunch and a brief siesta we went for a swim to start cleaning the hull.  There's not much growth on her, just a little weed near the waterline and on the rudder.  The prop needed a little scrubbing too.

It's nice being on a mooring, especially after the deep anchorages in the Tuamotus and Society Leeward islands.  Our Muir VM500 manual windlass is great, but weighing 16m of 10mm chain plus a 20kg anchor is hard work.  Turning a 75kg old guy into an iron man will take time.  So mooring is a treat.  And most legal locations in Raitea and Bora Bora are mooring only.  Looking forward to them!  The last time we were on a mooring was in Maine!  That was in June last year, and 14,000nm ago.  How the miles fly by!!!

La Mahana resort from the mooring

Later in the afternoon we dinked over to the S end of the bay, chatting along the way with OCC sv Santo who were also moored.  When the 8 moorings are occupied it seems OK to anchor E of the moorings.  It's quite shallow there but appears bombie-free.  There are small bombies inshore close to the beach and that seems a good snorkelling spot.

After our snorkelling recce in the dink we visited the La Mahana resort.  They're very cruiser friendly and it's a very nice resort.  The snorkelling appears to be good around their jetty judging by the resort residents, and its a very good dinghy dock.

We went for a walk N along the road.  Lots of well-kept gardens with friendly locals.  Even the local dogs are obviously well looked after.  We were escorted by one of these fine beasts.

Back at the resort we settled in for happy hour and dinner.  Happy hour offers only cocktails so we went for a jug of beer and ordered dinner.  We can't remember when we last had a jug of beer!  And dinner was great, as you'd expect in a French resort.  US$80 for beer, mains and a shared desert.  We recommend the 'tarte fine' which must be ordered at the start of the meal.

La Mahana resort restaurant

Dinner is served

We're allowed to stay in the bay for three nights.  Tomorrow we expect to be joined by EBBYC sv Southern Wing.

Trust all's well where you are!

Saturday, 12 July 2025

Moorea

Hi everyone,

Following the Tahiti to Moorea Sailing Rendezvous we motored the 6nm E to Cook's Bay,   We've spent three nights here with OCC sv Nimue.  Two days were spent explored ashore with them.

Zen Again in Cook's Bay

Entering Cook's Bay

On day one we went ashore to the dinghy dock at the S end of the bay.  From there we walked along the W side of the bay.  Eventually we reached the Rotui Fruit Juice factory and did a free tour.  Its products includes plain fruit juices, alcoholic fruit cocktails and rum.  Very interesting tour, particularly for anyone interested in automation and industrial processing.

Dinghy Dock at S end of bay

In the Rotui Juice Factory

Distilling Rum

Packing Juice

Aging the rum

Tasting the products

After the factory tour we found a road-side cafe serving Thai-style food.  Very nice.  Before returning to the boats we visited the local supermarket which is surprisingly good.  French Poly supermarkets have a tardis-like quality.

On day two we went ashore at the cruise ship terminal dinghy dock.  It's very close to the Cook's Bay Resort where we had a very nice coffee.  From there we walked N around the coast to the town.  We finally found an ATM for a hopefully final top-up of our XPF francs.  We found a very good supermarket which stocked eggs (many don't) then headed to the Moorea Beach Cafe for a very nice pizza lunch.

Cruise ship dock in background with dinghy dock

Le Cook restaurant

Lunch at Moorea Beach Cafe

This morning we rewatered Zen Again by dinghy from the potable water taps ashore beside the beached pirogues.  That took two dinghy trips and on each occasion separate local guys insisted on helping carry the water jerries and load them in the dinghy.  Such friendly folks here.

We're now ready to move on to Huanine, Raiatea and Bora Bora.  They're an overnight sail away and we expect to depart this afternoon.

Dinking in towards the water station

Rewatering

Trust all's well where you are!

Tuesday, 8 July 2025

Tahiti to Moorea Sailing Rendezvous

Hi everyone,

We've just completed the Tahiti to Moorea Sailing Rendezvous with 23 other yachts.  It was fantastic.  It exceeded our expectations and was great value.

Zen Again in Moorea
(Danish sv Enterprise photo)

On Friday afternoon we attended the event briefing at Papeete Marina.  The weather wasn't ideal and we got a ride with US sv Wanderlust in their RIB.  We got there in 15 minutes vice 90 minutes in our little rubber ducky and electric outboard.  The briefing was thorough, including anchorage and mooring information for the rest of the Society Islands.

Briefing

On Saturday morning we weighed anchor (it's heavy) and headed out from the Airport Anchorage to Papeete Port and though the pass into the open sea.  At 1030 we started with the other boats in a light W breeze.  Within an hour most of the catamarans were motoring although the fleet was led by trimaran Oceans Tribute and catamaran Southern Wing.

Farewell Tahiti

Sailing to Moorea

We sailed until 1400 in a light W wind under full sail.  By then it was clear we needed to motor to get in before sunset.  So the motor went on and we motor-sailed with a group of boats towards Moorea.  The island has a spectacular profile with impressive mountains.

A view of Cook's Bay, Moorea

We passed Cook's Bay and finished at Opunohu Bay a little further west.  We proceeded down into the bay and anchored in 12m over mud.  We immediately launched the dinghy and went ashore to join the welcome event  with free rum punch followed by dinner.  After dinner a troupe of Polynesian dancers entertained us all.  A very impressive welcome.

Into Opunohu Bay, Moorea

Polynesian dancing

With fire

And audience participation

Zen Again in Opunohu Bay

On Sunday morning we dinghied ashore after enjoying breakfast of fresh baguettes delivered by the organisers.  The day whizzed by with canoe racing in the morning, a wonderful lunch of local produce, and an afternoon of games including tugs of war, banana running and stone lifting.  The highlight was an excellent Polynesian band with dancers.

Fish pedicure

Gift stalls

Canoe racing

Sitting down for lunch

Lunch with cruising pals

Tug of war

Ladies preparing to dance, and the band

Lads dancing with fire

Impressive performance

Dancers with Sailing Rendezvous organisers

The final event on Sunday was a presentation on Polynesian navigation techniques by the Tahitian Historical Society which hosted the event on the island.   Interesting presentation.

Lecture on Polynesian Navigation

Monday morning saw the final part of the event following breakfast provided ashore.  Teams from Tonga, Fiji, New Zealand and Vanuatu described the attractions of their countries and the regulations applying to visiting yachts.  Very interesting and useful.

Tonga briefing

NZ briefing

We expect to spend a few more days in Moorea.  The Sailing Rendezvous is an annual event.  Its a great way to experience a little Polynesian culture, learn about future destinations and spend time with like-minded cruisers.  Recommended!

The Sailing Rendezvous has a web site here.

Trust all's well where you are.