Friday 25 November 2022

Amazon Adventures

Hi everyone,

After our three days in Cartagena des Indias we flew to Leticia (via Bogata) in the far south of Colombia.  Leticia is on the Amazon River with Brazil close by and Peru on the other side of the river.  We did a three day / two night tour with Amazonas Jungle Tours.

In the Amazon Jungle

We flew south on Friday.  The flights were about 1 hour to Bogata and 1 1/2 hours to Leticia, both on Airbus A320s.  The second image below is from the Spyglass iOS app.

On the way to board our A320


Landing in Leticia

We were met by the Jungle Tours boss Sergio and escorted to our transport - tuk-tuks!  With Steve and Helen of sv Cerulean we had a tuk-tuk race where-ever we went in Leticia.


At the Jungle Tours office we discovered why their web site is so fast despite internet being generally so slow in Leticia - they have Starlink.  Perfect application of the technology given Leticia is a real frontier town with limited infrastructure.  Its population is 45000.

Our tour ranged from Leticia to Puerto Narino

Kitted out with wellington boots and briefed on our tour we were tuk-tuked to our AirBNB accommodation.  The ride was bumpy as the roads in Leticia are pot-holed and/or flooded.  The accommodation was cheap and basic.

From there we tuk-tuked into town for a meal at a restaurant Jungle Tours recommended.  Very good.  After eating we explored the town.  As dusk approached we walked to the park where thousands of parrots roost each evening.


Leticia street art

Parrots coming home to roost in the town park

On Saturday we were tuk-tuked to the river and did a short trip on a small boat to get to the main port.  The bridge which normally allows one to walk there was damaged.


The main high-speed ferry carries about 80 passengers and cruises at about 24 knots.  Big outboards.  Going up-river it was doing 20 knots over the ground.  Spectacular trip.

Spyglass view

On the Amazon

At Puerto Narino we were met by our Jungle Tours guide Breitner.  He escorted us to our hotel.  Puerto Narino is very clean and tidy.  No motorised vehicles at all.  Back in his day Pablo Escobar had an airstrip nearby and funded a lot of development in the town while running for President.  Those days are gone but the town is still very well kept indeed.  The population is mainly indigenous and the place has a really good vibe.

Walking to the hotel




After checking-in and dumping our bags Breitner took us back to the river where we boarded an outboard-powered aluminium canoe-style runabout.  Out off the town we watched pink and grey dolphins fishing in the channel just upstream of the town jetty.  Then we headed across the river to the Peruvian side where we went ashore.  Nic and I went for a swim in the Amazon!

In Peru

Waving not drowning

It was interesting to see most local craft are powered by long-tails, as used in SE Asia.

After lunch back in Puerto Narino we headed out of town on foot for a jungle tour.  Breitner knew his stuff, describing the medicinal use of trees and plants.  We walked to an indigenous farm where enormous Pirarucu fish live.  They can reach 3m in length and 200kg.


Toucan!

Lake used as a fish farm

Pirarucu

We stayed at the farm for an hour or so as the sun went down, enjoying a rest in hammocks.  After nightfall we headed back off through the jungle to town.  Along the way we saw many insects, frogs, lizards and several tarantulas.







Saturday was a busy day!  After a quick dinner we crashed at the hotel.

Sunday started with a river crossing to an island on the Peru side.  We visited an indigenous village and walked through the nearby jungle.

Even remote indigenous villages have their art

Leaf-carrying ants everywhere

Sloth

Big Tree!

We had lunch in the indigenous village and walked back to the river through a different jungle path.  Some of the trees in the jungle are enormous.  The height of wet-season flooding was clear on all the trees.  Much of the island is inundated for several months.  The houses are all-wood and have two or three stories.

We returned to Puerto Narino mid-afternoon and after a break reconvened for a boat trip to a lake on the Colombian side of the river.  The water changes from brown to black as one leaves the main stream and enters the lake.  Our task was to catch piranha!

Ready to fish!

The fishing was good fun.  Nicki had never caught a fish before and her first catch was a sardine which proved good bait for the piranha.  Between the four of us we caught 8 piranha plus numerous catfish.  At sunset we headed back to Puerto Narino for dinner.  After dinner Breitner cooked up some of our piranhas for us at the Jungle Tours office.  They were very nice!

Ready to cook

Angry Fish

On Monday we walked upstream to visit a resort where several types of monkey can be seen.  Along the way we spotted some big iguanas.

Iguana

Boca Leche monkeys

Squirrel monkey


The resort also features a couple of large parrots...




Amazing track-side plants

On Monday afternoon it was time to return to Leticia.  We went on a slightly smaller fast ferry.  On arrival we were again met by Jungle Tours and tuk-tuked to their office and onward to our hotel.  We stayed in a different AirBNB hotel nearer to the town centre.


On Tuesday we flew back to Santa Marta, again on Airbus A320s.  We had booked to fly via Bogota and Medellin but our flight from Bogota was delayed and we scored a direct flight home.

Curved approach into Bogota due to nearby hills
(the runway's above the wing)

Our tour in the Amazon was fantastic.  Can't recommend Amazonas Jungle Tours highly enough!

We expect to be in Santa Marta for a few days as we wait for a good weather window for Panama.

Trust all's well where you are!

Thursday 24 November 2022

Cartagena des Indias

Hi everyone,

After a week exploring Santa Marta we started a land tour of Colombia.  We were away for 8 days and spent half our time in Cartagena des Indias and half in Leticia and the Amazon.  We travelled with our friends from sv Cerulean.

We just had to visit Cartagena des Indias to compete the trifecta with the ruins of Carthage (near Tunis) and Cartagena in Spain.  We loved Cartagena in Spain and Cartegenas des Indias was great too, with many similarities.

Sunset view across Cartagena from our apartment

We travelled by bus from Santa Marta to Cartagena.  It was a 5 hour trip with interesting views and scenes along the way.  That afternoon we strolled around the Centro Historico.  It's a spectacular place marred only by the many hawkers trying to sell stuff.  Cartagena is a popular tourist stop for cruise liners so it's best to explore the old city on days we few or no visiting cruise liners.

Typical street scene in Cartagena's Centro Historico

Interesting columns and statues

Monkeys live in a small city centre park.

Statue outside the naval museum

Many tourist and up-market stores in the town

Sunset at our apartment

The next morning we taxied into the old city and found a nice cafe for breakfast.  The morning was spent on a free tour which was well worthwhile.

Great Tucker!

Sculptures

Touring the old city

Statue of Bolivar

Waterfront statues

After the tour we met with the OCC Port Officer Lee and the crew of sv DanceMe for lunch.  Lee provided a wealth of local information and history.

One of the many things we learned on the tour was the meaning of the various door knocker styles in the old town.  The doors are very high to accommodate Spaniards on horses!

Royalty

Military

Seafarer

Merchant

City wall sunset

On day 2 we explored further and 'did' the museums.  Nautical displays are peppered with mentions of Sir Francis Drake who terrorised Spanish South America.  He ransomed Cartagena before sailing around Cape Horn (discovering Drake's Passage).  He ransomed a number of Spanish settlements on the west coast of South America and beyond.  Apparently even today naughty local kids are threatened with having El Drako set onto them.

Breakfast at a bookstore cafe

The inquisition ran for 200 years in Cartagena

Lots of nautical history

Partial replica of a galleon

How the Spanish fended off the Brits second time around

On day 3 we focussed on street art...

Angry men

Beautiful women

Cartagena is a vibrant mix of cultures

Beyond street art

Regular houses sport street art

Paintings for sale too

Much of the street art is actually advertising for cafes and bars.  We certainly enjoyed exploring a few of them.

Fish restaurant foyer

Snazzy coffee bar/cafe

Worldwide beer bar

By lunchtime we had heavy tropical rainfall.  Many of the old city roads were flooded.  We hopped between cafes, unsuccessfully trying to stay dry.


We really enjoyed our time in Cartagena.  Definitely worth a visit!