New Zealand to Australia Passage Summary

Hi everyone,

Here is a summary of our 1200nm passage between Opua in Northland New Zealand and Southport in Queensland Australia.  We sailed alone in a wide range of conditions.  During the first two days we had light winds.  Then we 'rode' the N side of a large high pressure system for a week or so which gave us 20-30+ knot SE-E winds.  The final few days gave us light NE winds before a weak southerly buster blew us home.

Tasman Sea

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival at Southport YC Quarantine Dock

Graphs

Here are the vital stats for the passage…

    • Distances/Speeds

        • Route Distance = 1160 nm

        • Logged Distance = 1231 nm

        • GPS Distance = 1311 nm

        • Duration = 11 days 5 hours 25 minutes

        • Average speed = 4.6 kt

        • Minimum boat speed = 2.5 kt

        • Maximum boat speed = 6.5 kt with surges to 10 knots on waves

    • Weather

        • Minimum wind speed = 2 kt

        • Average wind speed = 20 knots

        • Maximum wind speed = 30 with gusts to 38

        • Apparent wind angle range = 50 to 150

        • Seas 1-3 m

        • Swell 1-4 m from multiple directions

        • Cloud varying from 1/8 to 8/8

        • 3/4 to full moon to 1/2

    • Engine

        • Total = 50 hours

        • Driving = 50 hours

        • Charging = 0 hours

    • Failures

        • One wing-mounted solar panel ejected from its frame by a greenie

    • Stars

        • The boat - as always

        • Storm staysail

        • WindPilot vane gear in the breeze

 The Tasman Sea (aka "the ditch") has a bad reputation.  We found it similar to the Indian Ocean due to the strong following winds from the SE and cross-swell from the S.  This led to a corkscrew motion and occasional violent green-water side-swipes.  ie Solid lumps of water across the boat, one of which ejected a solar panel from its frame.

The weather was as expected.  We waited patiently for a large High to ridge in to the Tasman.  That wait lasted nearly a month.  It was worth the wait.  We rode the High's light S winds up to North Cape and past the Three Kings Islands.  The wind then backed SE and built over several days, eventually reaching 25G35+ from the ENE.  As the High moved out of the Tasman winds became light NE.  This is when most of our motoring took place.

As we approached the coast the currents became stronger.  Battling them in the left-over sea and swell was difficult.  We don't have the weight or engine power to punch through this kind of slop.  Our boat speed was similar to the currents which were all over the place in rotating gyres.  Eventually the forecast weak southerly buster arrived.

Currents Matter!

Overall it was a typical passage in the 'variables'.  Variable winds with occasional showers, but no big thunderstorms.  Cross-swells made the cockpit somewhere to go only for specific tasks.  We kept watch in the companionway under the dodger.  Kazi the WindPilot vane gear steered most of the way.

In the Bay of Islands Marina

Departing the Bay of Islands

NNW along the New Zealand coast

Swell building

Storm staysail & trisail-sized main in 20G30

We spent three days with the main down, sailing with either storm staysail or triple-furled yankee only.  We were still doing 5+ knots.  This was when the High was S of us and the winds ESE-ENE.

Storm staysail only in 25G35+

One interesting interlude was navigating through a wide area full of fishing vessels.  Mostly Australian and Cook Islands registered.  We could see them on MarineTraffic but their positions weren't updating frequently.  As we came into onboard AIS range we could identify boats and buoys.  As the screenshot below shows one boat shot their nets across our bow.  You can see several buoys on their deck awaiting deployment.  We called them on VHF and they assured us we could safely sail between the buoys, the nets being at least 15m deep.

Fishing vessel shooting AIS-buoyed nets

Highlights of the passage were sitting back and watching Zen Again eat up the miles.  She's pretty quick and loves surging down swells.  The WindPilot managed the surges very well.  

We saw lots of wildlife near the Three Kings Islands - a whale and prolific bird life.  Elsewhere we regularly saw albatross which I could happily watch all day.  The sun rises and sets were amazing.  With a full moon we rarely lost visibility of the horizon, often through thin stratus cloud,  The main stars and the planets were clearly visible on the nights without cloud.

Occasional showers

We used our SSB to report in to Gulf Harbour Radio daily.  Propagation was excellent throughout the passage.  We also spoke with several amateur operators at much longer ranges.

Seeing the coast of Australia from Zen Again for the first time since 2015, and the coast of Queensland for the first time since 2011 was fantastic.  This passage marked the completion of our circumnavigation.  We crossed our path at the Gold Coast Seaway after almost exactly 15 years.

Land Ho!

Clearing in to Australia was straight-forward.  Customs were waiting for us at the Q dock.  Biosecurity visited us the next morning.  We used Dazmac as our re-import agent.  This cost about $1000 but eased the process and we had no import duty or GST to pay.

Zen Again at Southport YC's Q dock

We spent our first week back in Australia cleaning the boat, buying a car, swapping WA to QLD driver licences, registering Zen Again in QLD, changing to an Australian insurer, finding a live aboard berth, looking at tiny home builders, and preparing to start a new job tomorrow.  Super busy!

Next we'll post a summary of our circumnavigation.  Might be a week or two away.

Trust all's well where you are!

Southport Arrival

Hi everyone,

We arrived in Southport at 1630 yesterday.  The final 24 hours were an endurance test.  Calms, currents and gale.

At Southport YC Quarantine Dock

Yesterday afternoon the motoring continued in a sloppy seaway with little breeze.  Initially we were headed W and only doing 3 knots.  We got into a N current and found ourselves tracking NW.  Eventually we tacked N.

By mid-evening the long awaited southerly buster arrived.  With double-reefed (trisail sized) main and storm staysail set we stopped the engine and took off!  Our course gradually lifted from N to NW, taking us directly towards our destination.  Zen Again had a bone between her teeth and was flying.  The wind was 25G35.  Unlike when we were riding the high on a broad reach here we were on a beam reach.  Wet'n'wild, but faaaaast!

Wind Gusts

By the morning the winds were easing.  They continued to do so as we closed the coast, gradually shaking out reefs, swapping to the yankee and unfurling in steps.  After midday the engine had to come on to take us home.

Gold Coast

In the Gold Coast Seaway

Re-entering the Gold Coast Seaway closed the circle on our circumnavigation.  That felt good!  From there it was a short motor to the Southport YC Marina where there's a quarantine dock.  Two officers from the ABF were there to meet us and start our clearance process.  With that done it was time for bubbles!  We'll see the DAFF folks today.

Approaching Southport YC Marina

We did roughly 65000nm on our 15 year circumnavigation.    Here is our track...

Circle closed

We'll do a passage summary next, then a circumnavigation summary.

Trust all's well where you are!

Southport Inbound Day 5

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 28 05S 153 55E steering 270M, sailing under single-reefed main and double-furled yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 14G21 from the SW.  Our noon to noon distances were 103nm by the log and 116nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 1204nm and 1280nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 27nm.

Final Sunset?

Yesterday afternoon and evening was a mess.  Enough wind to kick up a chop but not enough to sail through the chop and confused swells.  All we could make was 2-3 knots through the water due to the sea state.  And the East Australian Current's gyres were having fun with us.  We motor-sailed until 2145 when finally the southerly buster arrived.

Out of the frying pan into the fire!  The buster arrived with 25G35 WSW winds which gradually backed to the S in the small hours.  We set the double-reefed main and storm staysail and Zen Again flew.  She's as keen as us to get into harbour.  We were sitting on 7-8 knots for extended periods.

Dawn WindPilot Kami Workout

This morning we're pushing onward.  We really want to berth in daylight.  We're exchanging emails with AFP and they will probably come down with DAFF to clear us tomorrow morning.  But let's get there first.

Trust all's well where you are!

Southport Inbound Day 4

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 29 14S 155 13E steering 270M, motor-sailing under single-reefed main at 3.5 knots.  The wind was 8G12 from the NNW.  Our noon to noon distances were 108nm by the log and 115nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 1101nm and 1164nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 122nm.

Setting sun yesterday

Yesterday afternoon we sailed WNW in a light SW wind.  As predicted it died early in the evening.  The engine came on at 2000 and hasn't been off since.  A bit tedious but we're making progress.

Dawn today

This morning the wind gradually backed around to the E then N.  This precedes a cold front / southerly buster coming up the coast.  This far north its predicted to get up to 25G30 from the SSW.  Right now here's a sloppy sea from the N and left-over swell from the S.  By mid-afternoon we should be able to tack N and sail.  Once we tack and resume sailing the wind should free until we're broad reaching home.

The ABF (Australian Border Force) and DAFF (Dept of Ag, Fish & Forests) know we are coming.  They will meet us at Southport YC's quarantine dock.  Our current ETA is 1500 tomorrow.

Trust all's well where you are.

Southport Inbound Day 3

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 30 02S 157 02E steering 285M, sailing under single-reefed main and full yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 13G17 from the S.  Our noon to noon distances were 101nm by the log and 99nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 993nm and 1048nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 227nm.  Just a Freo to Geraldton.

Sailing yesterday afternoon

Yesterday afternoon we managed to keep sailing until 1730.  The sails were starting to slat in the dying breeze.  We motored until 0700 (still on NZ time by the way).  The seas and swell gradually eased overnight.

Fishing Vessel shooting its nets

Overnight we carefully made our way between the array of fishing vessels shown in yesterday's blog post.  One Australian fishing vessel passed a few miles in front of us shooting her nets with AIS marker buoys several miles apart.  We called her on VHF and the skipper advised we were fine to cross the nets.  Apparently the net tops are at least 15m down, further well away from the buoys.  In the screenshot above you can see a set of AIS transmitters on the boat ready to launch.

Morning clouds

At 0300 this morning we started motor-sailing in a light S breeze.  By 0700 the breeze filled in to 12G15 and we killed the engine.  The wind is expected to die tonight again, and stay light most of tomorrow.  Tomorrow night the wind should return, from a southerly buster forecast to just reach Brisbane.  

Sailing this morning

Trust all's well where you are!

Southport Inbound Day 2

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 30 47S 158 41E steering 300M, sailing under double-reefed main and double-furled yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 16G22 from the NE.  Our noon to noon distances were 102nm by the log and 114nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 892nm and 950nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 323nm.

Something missing?

Yesterday afternoon and evening the winds held in at 20G30 from the E.  We copped several more side-swipes, one of which was by far the biggest yet.  It felt like we'd been T-boned.  The green water jumped over the windward rail-mounted solar panel and punched the leeward panel clean out of its frame.  See the photo above.

After midnight the winds ever so slowly started to back and ease.  At dawn we set the main double-reefed.  Initially we furled the yankee to its tripled-furled position but later this morning could ease more out to double-furled.

Dawn this morning

WindPilot 'Kazi' - the star of the show

Throughout this passage we've been watching MarineTraffic.com to keep an eye out for distant traffic.  We're currently 40nm E of a set of Australia fishing vessels, each with a large array of - we think - buoys.  None visible on local AIS yet.  We've been adjusting our course to pass through them with maximum clearance.  The screenshot below shows us on the right and a set of targets to our W.  Very helpful to identify these hazards before we're "in amongst 'em".

MarineTraffic view - fishing fleet ahead!

The wind is forecast to gradually die this afternoon and evening.  We may well be motoring later tonight.

Trust all's well where you are.

Southport Inbound Day 1

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 31 32S 160 40E steering 300M, sailing under no main and triple-furled yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 21G29 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 98nm by the log and 116nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 790nm and 835nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 433nm.  Only a Freo to Albany!

OpenCPN showing RTOFS ocean surface currents

Yesterday afternoon and evening saw the E winds continuing at 20G35 with occasional rain squalls.  The night was cloudy with the almost full moon managing to filter through.  We've not lost sight of the horizon at all on this passage so far.

This morning we changed from storm staysail to triple-furled yankee as the wind gusts eased a little.  Our course is slowly curving westward.  We'll pass about 50nm NE of Lord Howe Island and S of Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs.

We've been trying to stay out of adverse current.  The screenshot above shows SE flowing current E of Lord Howe which we are avoiding.  The large high pressure system we've been riding is slowly moving E.  We're heading into an area of light winds which will be displaced by a southerly buster.  Happily we're far enough N to only get the tip of it as we approach the coast.  At least that's what the predictions say today!

PredictWind ECMWF Wind

Trust all's well where you are.

Opua Outbound Day 6

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 32 56S 162 10E steering 300M, sailing under no main and storm staysail at 5 knots.  The wind was 22G35 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 107nm by the log and 120nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 692nm and 719nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 544nm.

Gybed to head NW

Yesterday afternoon winds stayed E 20G30.  Seas were up to 4m and we were still being side-swiped occasionally.  At 1730 we gybed onto starboard.  We had hopes of passing close to Lord Howe Island and initially were heading straight for it when it was 250nm away.

Early morning sun

At 1930 we changed up from the storm staysail to triple-furled yankee as the wind eased to 20G25.  That lasted all night and we enjoyed the full moon with only a few clouds in the sky.  We did cop one rain squall which gave us a gust of 38 knots but passed rapidly.

This morning the wind built to 22G30 and we changed down to the storm staysail again.  The low/aft position of the staysail produces a much smoother ride and only slightly slower speed.  Well worth it to keep us rested.  We took one side-swipe which dumped enough water on deck to let some through the dorades.  Not supposed to happen!

Rainbow!

This morning we've been lifted so it looks like we'll leave Lord Howe Island well to port.  We'll see.  The mostly sunny skies are keeping our house battery bank well charged.  We've been seeing albatross and a couple of other sea bird types occasionally.  No more whales since Three Kings thankfully!

Trust all's well where you are.

Opua Outbound Day 5

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 33 40S 164 15E steering 240M, sailing under no main and storm staysail at 5 knots.  The wind was 22G30 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 127nm by the log and 128nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 585nm and 599nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 659nm.  Almost half way and only a Sydney-Hobart to go!

Big seas at dawn

Yesterday afternoon the wind was ESE 20G25.  Zen Again was loving it.  Overnight winds gradually increased and waves reached about 3.5m.  At 0400 a rain squall came through with 30G35.  Zen Again and Kazi the WindPilot managed well but it was becoming a white knuckle ride.  The boat was surfing at over 8 knots frequently.

The squall only lasted 30 minutes but it reminded me of the trap of 'pressonitis' - pushing onward too hard for too long.  So at 0900 we doused the mainsail.  That reduced the stress level and improved the ride, at the cost of only 0.5knots speed.  Dousing the main was easy with our Tides Marine SailTrack.

Skies cleared this morning after a cloudy night.  All's well aboard!

Trust all's well where you are.

Opua Outbound Day 4

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 33 12S 166 40E steering 250M, sailing under double-reefed main and storm staysail at 5.5 knots.  The wind was 20G25 from the ESE.  Our noon to noon distances were 130nm by the log and 135nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 458nm and 470nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 753nm.

Sailing West

Yesterday afternoon continued with 20G30 E winds and an unpleasant sea state.  Southerly swell persisted, battling the large E seas.  It reminded us of the Indian Ocean.  Frequent side-swiping with water cascading into the cockpit.  We stayed below with occasional quick looks around for traffic.

Speaking of traffic we've seen only three other vessels.  All were large cargo ships and all passed while we were still close to New Zealand.  It's pretty lonely out here!  Zen Again is loving the conditions.  She has been surging at up to 10 knots on some waves.  Kazi the WindPilot vane gear is doing a fantastic job.

Dawn Today

The boisterous conditions continued overnight.  We were again semi-pooped by a breaking wave.  This time Nicki was doing a quick look around and she 'took a dousing' to keep water out of the cabin.  The kettle stayed put this time since we'd unlocked the cooker gimbals after yesterday's incident.

Conditions are starting to moderate this morning.  We'll see if that continues.  We're going to extend further W before gybing to stay out of 30G35 winds forecast to the NW.

Trust all's well where you are!

Opua Outbound Day 3

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 32 56S 169 16E steering 240M, sailing under double-reefed main and storm staysail at 6 knots.  The wind was 21G28 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 127nm by the log and 130nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 328nm and 335nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 875nm.

Dawn today

Yesterday afternoon we continued NNW in gradually increasing wind.  At 2030 in the evening we gybed to the W.  Overnight the wind continued to increase.  At 0600 we furled the last of the yankee and set the storm staysail.

Storm staysail and trisail-sized main

We're now charging W, often surging to over 7 knots in 3m swell/seas.  The cockpit was dry until I took my phone on deck to take the above photo.  We were then side-swiped by a big wave which half filled the cockpit.  A little spray got below and the kettle ejected itself from the cooktop.  The navstation copped a few drops of water, mostly on the computer keyboard but hopefully everything's OK.

These strong winds are predicted to continue for some time - several days.

Trust all's well where you are!

Opua Outbound Day 2

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 33 15S 171 26E steering 290M, sailing under double-reefed main and full yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 12G16 from the ESE.  Our noon to noon distances were 94nm by the log and 105nm over the ground.   Overall we'd logged 201nm and 205nm respectively.  Our distance to go was 982nm.

Three Kings Islands at sunset

Yesterday afternoon saw the light and sloppy conditions continue.  Twice we motored for an hour when the sails were slatting and we were almost stopped.  The 1.5m short swell from the S was unpleasant.

We did manage to see the Three Kings Islands, albeit as the sun was ssetting.  Spectacular place with lots of wildlife around them.  We saw large flocks of birds, one albatross and a small whale.  The whale overtook us!  Quite a bit of current between Cape Rienga and the Three Kings.

Dawn

We gybed at midnight to head NNW.  This put the swell behind us and the ride improved.  But the wind was still light and we continued using Kami the autopilot to hold course.  At 0300 the wind gradually started to back into the SE and fill in a little.  We tucked the second reef in and swapped over to Kazi the vane gear.  The trisail sized main balances the boat for Kazi.  Oh the serenity!  No more eeee-awe of the autopilot actuator over-steering.

Around dawn we copped a couple of light showers.  These backed the wind around to ESE so we're now on a reasonable course.  The sky is now partly cloudy with long sunny spells.  Air temperature was 17C overnight and has risen to 20C today.  Significantly warmer than yesterday.

Showers

Trust all's well where you are!

Opua Outbound Day 1

Hi everyone,

At noon today we were at 34 14S 172 48E steering 290M, sailing under single-reefed main and full yankee at 3.5 knots.  The wind was 8G12 from the SSE and fading.  Since departure at 1100 we covered 107nm by the log and 99nm over the ground.  We have 1063nm to go on a 1163nm route towards Southport, QLD.

Sunset on Day 1

We cleared out with NZ Customs at 1000 yesterday (Monday) in Opua.  By 1100 we were underway.  We motored out into the Bay of Islands and set sail at 1200.

Ready for Departure

We had a pretty good sail up the coast in light winds.  A nice way to start a passage.  The winds held in all night under a partly cloudy sky with a waxing 3/4 moon.

Bay of Islands astern

Heading N along the coast

At dawn we were passing North Cape and pushing into a knot of current.  By midday the winds were dying and soon after the motor went on.  We had hoped to sail past the Three Kings Islands in daylight but the slow going has made that impossible.

Passing North Cape at dawn

The wind is predicted to fill in tonight and then strenghen from the E.  That should take us most of the way to the Australian east coast.  May cop a front just before arrival.

Trust all's well where you are!