Western San Blas Cruise

Hi everyone,

Since our last post we spent two weeks in the Holandes Cays in the western San Blas islands.  It was a lot of fun despite battling with the aftermath of Covid.  At least we were no longer isolating and could enjoy Christmas with friends.  We were with SVs Cerulean, Ruffian, Avanti and Zelda to mention a few.  After a very pleasant Christmas we sailed to Linton Bay via Chichime Cays.

Zen Again in Banedup anchorage (sv Ruffian photo)

However, first some photos of Zen Again from SVs Pachific and Avanti.  This is only the second time we've received photos of Zen Again under sail.  Here we are enroute from Islas Pinos to Snug Harbour.

Sailing in Company (sv Avanti photo)

Sailing in Company (sv Pachific photo)

Sailing in Company (sv Avanti photo)

We spent a week anchored off BBQ Island.  We were alone for the first few days and still self-isolating. A great place for it!  Several fruit'n'veg boats come out to the islands to sell to cruisers.  Very nice produce indeed.  The Ceruleans arrived after a few days.  It was great to start socialising again.  We went ashore together for dinner at Iban's restaurant on Banedup Island.  Iban's sister makes wonderful molas.

Anchored S of BBQ Island

One of the fruit'n'veg boats

Ashore on Banedup Island

Iban's beachside restaurant

Banedup Island was devastated by a tsunami in 1882
This path commemorates the disaster

Another two marvellous Molas aboard

After a week at BBQ Island (aka 'Swimming Pool' anchorage) we moved to Banedup anchorage for one night then to the 'Hot Tub' anchorage for several days.  We were in a strong current there and added 6nm to the log due to the current.  We joined sv Ruffian there, who we hadn't seen since Dominica.  On the 23rd we returned to Banedup Island anchorage with Ruffian and Cerulean for Christmas.

It was nice to meet the crew of sv Altimate while here.  They are part of the Escapee Net we run on SSB and had only been voices previously.  Between Altimate, Cerulean and Ruffian we had several sundowners or other visits.  Zen Again was popular for our Starlink internet access since mobile coverage here is very poor.  We 'traded' internet access for water supplies.

Anchorage-hopping in the Eastern Holandes Cays

On the Beach

Beautiful Panama Sunsets

In the 'Hot Tub' with Cerulean and Ruffian

Banedup anchorage is mostly deep - we were in 12m - but there's little current.  So we spent several swimming session cleaning Zen Again's bottom.  Our strength was returning post-Covid at last!

On Christmas day we went ashore for lunch with Cerulean, Ruffian and Avanti.  Iban put on a marvellous meal for us all.  This was followed by a quiz and games organised by the Ceruleans.   The Zeldas arrived later and joined us all on Cerulean for a sundowner with Christmas cake and pudding.

Ashore for a fantastic Christmas lunch on Banedup Island

Fun and games after Christmas lunch

Christmas Sundowner on sv Cerulean
A full crew of OCC members

On Boxing Day morning we watched the start of the Rolex Sydney Hobart race, via Starlink.  It was great to be able to watch the event only a few hours after it happened.  Exciting start too!

That afternoon we followed Ruffian and Cerulean to Chichime Cays, 15nm west.  Great sail in a perfect breeze.  We anchored in the lagoon and had a good night's sleep after another sundowner on Cerulean.

Detail track of arrival/departure at Chichime Cays

The following morning we were up at dawn and chased Cerulean and Ruffian westward.  We had a perfect breeze for most of the passage.  But it gradually faded until at 4G7 the motor went on for the last 3nm.  We anchored 

Sayonara San Blas

sv Ruffian of Amble

Approaching Linton Bay

Anchored in Linton Bay

Linton Bay arrival track

Chichime to Linton Bay Graphs

Overall tracks from Holandes Cays to Linton Bay

Our cruise of the San Blas was great.  The east is remote, historic and provides the best view of Kuna culture.  The west is less remote, beautiful and has the iconic sandy beaches, palm trees and great snorkelling.

We expect to move into Linton Bay Marina soon.  We have various maintenance tasks to attend to.  More on that soon.  Hope you had a Happy Christmas!

Eastern San Blas Cruise

Hi everyone,

Since our last post we've been day-sailing westward through the eastern San Blas islands.  It's been a lot of fun despite self-isolating due to Covid.  Overall we've travelled from Puerto Obaldia at the Colombian border to BBQ Island, part of the Holandes Cays, at the eastern end of the western San Blas islands.

Overall tracks

We've used Bauhaus's wonderful book "The Panama Cruising Guide" and the raster charts derived from it.  We also used Navionics SonarCharts which appear accurate where boats have gone before, but not 'off the beaten track'.  Together they have kept us off most reefs.  But we have had a few surprises along the way.  We've found ourselves in 3m of water several times where charted as 2-3 times that.  And we've found ourselves in 8-10m where charted as 3-4 times that.  Vigilance is very necessary at all times.

From Nianega we motored to Isla Pinos.  The anchorage here is quite shallow but is very pretty.  We were there with Cerulean, Avanti and Pachific.  One night we were there gunshots were heard.  Next morning the Ceruleans learned from a guide that a panther had swum from the mainland and been shot on the island.  Panthers attack their livestock so the poor animal had to go.

Nianega to Isla Pinos track

Isla Pinos arrival

Isla Pinos English-speaking guide

Isla Pinos

With Cerulean at Isla Pinos

Isla Pinos's anchorage was used by Sir Francis Drake and various pirates/privateers.  It's fun imagining the sailing life in their day on this coast, just as we did sailing in James Cook's and Matthew Flinders's wake on the Australian coast.

From Islan Pinos we motor-sailed to Achutupu in company with Avanti and Pachific.  It was a very close reach into about 20 knots of breeze.  We set our storm staysail which helped us keep up with the bigger boats.

Isla Pinos to Achutupu track

Achutupu arrival

Motor-sailing to Ashutupu

In the anchorage at Ashutupu

Sailing dugouts near Ashutupu

Ashutupu sunset

Achutupu was the only anchorage on this coast where we were not visited by Kuna people.  Everywhere else we've paid either US$5 or US$10 anchorage fees and chatted with the locals.  Each fee is valid for multiple nights and receipts were always provided.

From Achutupu we moved on to Mono Island.  Another nice anchorage.  We were again in company with Avanti and Pachific, and Cerulean joined us the following day.  The wind had freed enough to sail.  Very nice.  We believe Avanti took photos and videos of us (as we did of them).  Looking forward to seeing them - we've only ever had at-sea photos of Zen Again sailing once before!

Achutupu to Mono Island track

Mono Island arrival

Sailing from Ashutupu with sv Avanti & sv Pachific

South African sv Avanti

Mono Island was a nice anchorage.  Like all preceding anchorages the bottom is mud and the water cloudy.  So we didn't swim.  Just as well with panthers in the water! ;)

From Mono Island we sailed to Snug Harbour.  Another nice sail under yankee alone.  When we started the engine to enter the harbour the raw water temperature alarm went off.  We killed the engine and jilled around in clear water while checking the engine.  We concluded the sensor is failing, as a previous one did in 2016.  During the inspection we noticed our engine mounts are starting to fail.  We're in touch with the supplier and will be treating the engine gently until they're replaced.

With checks complete we restarted the engine and entered the anchorage.  Snug Harbour is a top spot.  Apparently there's good snorkelling.  The water clarity is moderate and we had a swim to give the hull and stern gear a clean.

Mono Island to Snug Harbour track

Snug Harbour arrival

In Snug Harbour

Snug Harbour lobster!

Soon after arriving a dugout appeared selling lobster and crab.  We bought a big lobster for US$7.  Had that for dinner!  Another dugout with Molas arrived and we bought three from them - US$10 each for a panel and US$30 for a complete blouse.  Molas are hand-embroidered reverse applique panels worn by Kuna women.  Very colourful and unique to the Kuna.

The following day the Ceruleans again caught up with us.  It was nice to have a sundowner with them aboard Zen Again - first time in ages due to our self-isolating.  And the next morning they filled two water jerries for us from their water-maker filled tanks.

From Snug Harbour we had a proper 30nm sail to BBQ Island in Holandes Cays.  The wind was NNE and we had to work hard to beat out into deep water from Snug Harbour.  From there we zig-zagged WNW through several passes.  It was a great sail.

Snug Harbour to BBQ Island track

BBQ Island arrival

Snug Harbour to BBQ Island graphs

The entry to the eastern part of Holandes Cays is straight-forward, albeit with reefs close to port and starboard.  They're very clear to see in good light.  The anchorage off BBQ Island is quite shallow and we're in 3m over sand.  Nice to be in a land of sandy bottoms with clear water.  We had a dip soon after arriving to check the anchor and freshen up.

Approaching Holandes Cays

Entering the harbour

At anchor 400m from BBQ Island

We expect to spend a few days here.  We are still getting over our Covid coughs but are otherwise fit and well.

From here we expect to visit the Chichime Cays about 15nm west, then possibly Isla Porvenir.  Beyond there we expect to head to Portobello for Christmas.  We may stop in at Linton Bay marina if replacement engine mounts get there in time.

Trust all's well where you are!