Makemo Atoll

Hi everyone,

We've had a brief but wonderful stay at Makemo atoll.  Later today we'll  be departing towards Fakarava to join an EBBYC get-together.

Gday!

After arriving on Friday afternoon we met up with the crews of OCC yachts Nimue and Dovka.  We knew the Nimues from the UK where we'd met them at the Cruising Association in London.  And we had met the parents of the Dovkas in Deltaville, USA.  We all had pizza in town.  The town is very neat and tidy, and the locals super friendly.

Exploring Pouheva

Departing Pouheva anchorage

On Saturday we motored the 18nm W from Pouheva to Punaruku anchorage.  Like most passages through atoll lagoons this was a case of steering around the bombies, some of which are small reefs.  Most of them show up on satellite imagery.  That's why all yachts carry satellite imagery 'charts' in the South Pacific (and elsewhere).  Here's our track...

Track

OpenCPN showing chart and satellite image

During the passage we arranged the boats to take photos.  Always fun!

Line abreast - Dovka and Nimue

Line abreast - Dovka and Zen Again (sv Nimue photo)

Line astern - Dovka and Zen Again (sv Nimue photo)

Nimue takes the lead (as big boats feel the need to do)

Zen Again from Dovka

Manson Supreme dug in

The Punaruku anchorage has large sand patches which remove the need to float one's chain (as we did in Pouheva).  The NoForeignLand anchor symbol is right over one such sand patch.  On Saturday night we had a great sundowner on Zen Again with the Nimues and Dovkas.  Sadly no photos.

On Sunday we had a day of 'rest'.  Caught up on cleaning below, reorganising provisions etc.  Then in the afternoon we went for a snorkel around the reef which extends out from the point.  Lots of clams, some nice coral but poor visibility.  When we got back to the boat we found several baby sharks cruising around under Zen Again.

Baby sharks

Bombies in the shallows

Zen Again anchored at Punaruku

Our first atoll visit was great.  Such nice folks ashore, such amazing sea life, such wonderful scenery.

Trust all's well where you are!

Marquesas to Tuamotus Passage Summary

Hi everyone,

Here is the summary of our passage from Marquesas to the Tuamotus, both in French Polynesia.  It was a 500nm passage.  We had light airs throughout, making it our longest passage ever under full sail.  We only had reefs or furls in for a few hours during the early part of the passage.  We had to motor through a calm, and at the end to make it to the Makemo eastern pass at slack water.  It was a lovely passage with 'champagne sailing' practically all the way.

Under full sail

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival

Graphs

Here are the vital stats for the passage…

    • Distances/Speeds

        • Route Distance = 500nm

        • Logged Distance = 490nm (yes, the log is under-reading slightly)

        • GPS Distance = 515nm

        • Duration = 4 days 6 hours

        • Average speed over ground = 5.0 kt

        • Average day's run = ~120nm

        • Best day's run = 126nm

        • Minimum boat speed = 3.5 kt

        • Maximum boat speed = 6.0 kt

    • Weather

        • Minimum wind speed = 1 kt

        • Average wind speed = 9 knots

        • Maximum wind speed = 15 with gusts to 22

        • Apparent wind angle range = 60 to 140

        • Seas up to 1.5m at start, reducing to 0.5m for most of the passage

        • Swell 2m initially reducing to 1m for most of the passage 

        • Clear with 1/8 cloud except for one afternoon/evening with 6/8 cloud

        • Full or nearly full moon every night

    • Engine

        • Total = 18 hours

        • Driving = 18 hours

        • Charging = 0 hours

    • Failures

        • None

    • Stars

        • The boat - she's a witch in light airs, despite a small main and full fuel, water & provisions

        • Tasker mainsail and Kemp yankee

        • Pelagic autopilot  - steered for most of the passage due to low apparent wind

Marquesas departure

So many great sunrises and sunsets

Cloud bank before the calm

We experienced a calm which lasted for about 9 hours following a line of cloud passing overhead.  Then as we approached Makemo the wind died again.  Apart from those two 9 hour periods we sailed in winds of 8-10 knots, mostly from the ENE - NE.  So it was mostly a beam reach over a slight sea.  Champagne sailing indeed.

Transiting the pass

OCC svs Nimue & Dovka with Zen Again anchored behind at left

We plan to spend three nights here in Makemo.  After one night off Pouheve we'll be moving to the Punaruku anchorage NNW from here.

Trust all's well where you are!

Tuamotus Arrival

Hi everyone,

We arrived off Makemo Atoll's eastern pass at 1230 yesterday.  We had to motor from dawn to make the slack water occurring somewhere between 1200 and 1330.  More on that below.  Our noon to noon distances were 116nm by the log and 113nm over the ground.  Overall we'd logged 484nm and 510nm respectively.

Under full sail

Yesterday afternoon the wind finally backed into the ESE.  That made Raroia a beat to windward so we eased sheets for Makemo, changing our destination yet again.  Gotta go with the flow!  Also our arrival time at Raroia would have been many hours before slack tide so we'd have had to wait around.

We use three sources of tidal information.  One is Navionics Boating's built-in tide stations.  The second is SHOM, the official French site.  The third, and our preferred source, is TheFloatingLab's guestimator.  The latter allows user entry of weather conditions over preceding days and accounts for it in producing its output.  Here's the default (no weather) output we used:

TheFloatingLab's guestimate

The above plot indicated we needed to arrive at 1330 for slack water in the pass.  The other sources suggested 1200 and 1230.

We had a great sail under full canvas yesterday afternoon on a beam reach towards Makemo.  Overnight the wind gradually eased and started veering back to the ENE.  By dawn the wind was very light and so the motor went on.

On arrival outside the pass we used the bins to inspect the pass.  There was 'ruffled' water but no standing waves so we proceeded straight into the pass.  We had outgoing current up to 2.5 knots with a few minor whirlpools but no drama at all.  Phew!

Approaching the pass

The worst of the turbulence

In the pass

View of the town from the pass

In the lagoon

Once through the pass we looped around to stbd into the anchorage off the town of Pouheva.  We anchored on the shallow ledge in 8m over sand and rock.  For the first time ever we buoyed our anchor chain.  Thankfully the wind was dead calm by then, and remained so overnight.  The water is crystal clear with fish everywhere.  Locals were catching 1m tuna from the jetty.

Anchored off Pouheva

Zen Again was totally still anchored in the lagoon.  No swell for the first time since Shelter Bay Marina in Panama.  What a feeling!  We met up with our friends on OCC sv Nimue for a walk around town and a pizza.  It's a nice little town.  The locals are super-friendly and they keep their town very neat and tidy.  Great to be in the Tuamotus!

Our next post will be a passage summary.

Trust all's well where you are.

Tuamotus Inbound Day 1

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 14 52S 142 27W steering 180M, sailing under full main and yankee at 3.5 knots.  The wind was 6G10 from the ENE.  Our noon to noon distances were 106nm by the log and 115nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 368nm and 387nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 70nm, having reverted to our original destination of Raroia.  

Passing Showers

Yesterday afternoon clouds built up to windward.  Eventually they passed overhead giving us breeze of 15G20 from the NE.  In their wake there was nothing at all.  We ended up motoring for 7 hours over a glassed-out sea.  The engine went off at about 0200 as a light ENE breeze returned.  Happily the clouds cleared and we had a nice sail under the bright full moon.

Today we've been calculating whether we'll get to various atolls as a suitable time to transit their passes.  Our best option seems to be our original goal of Raroia.  At our present speed we'll arrive there tomorrow morning a few hours prior to slack water.  We might make it to Makemo, but only if we motor all the way.  So Raroia it is, for the moment!

Dawn today

Winds are predicted to stay light over the weekend.  So we should have a couple of nice days exploring the atoll.  Then early next week they come back in.  That should give us a good window to sail on.

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Outbound Day 2

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 13 09S 141 38W steering 180M, sailing under full main and yankee at 4 knots.  The wind was 7G9 from the NE.  Our noon to noon distances were 114nm by the log and 122nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 262nm and 272nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 236nm, and to a different destination.  

Moonrise last night

Originally we were planning to stop at Raroia but have switched to Makemo.  The switch allows us to arrive in daylight.  We need to transit the pass at slack water since these passes have up to 8 knots of current.  The pass we're planning to use in Makemo faces N so is less prone to wind over tide sea states in the prevailing E trade winds.  So we can transit at either of the slack tide times.

We've had very pleasant sailing conditions for day 2.  Sunny skies, low swell, minimal sea.  The wind has been quite light, forcing us to head up to maintain the apparent wind.  But overall we're making good progress.  The wind is forecast to slowly increase and veer to the E, both of which will help us along.

Moonset this morning

We're looking forward to the full moon tonight.  Last night it was all-but full and the moon rise and set were both spectacular.  No need for torches with this moon and a clear sky.

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Outbound Day 1

Hi everyone,

We departed Daniel's Bay at 0800 yesterday after 3 1/2 weeks in the Marquesas.  What spectacular islands!

At noon today we were at 11 17S 140 54W steering 200M, sailing under full main and yankee at 5 knots.  The wind was 9G12 from the ENE.  Our noon to noon distances were 126nm by the log and 128nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 148nm and 150nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 299nm.

Sunset

On departure we motor-sailed out of the lee of Nuku Hiva then had a good E sailing breeze with about 2m swell.  We passed about 10nm W of Oa Pou but still felt its lee.  Since clearing that island's lee we've had wonderful ENE breeze of 8G12 with 1m swell and very little sea.  And there's an almost cloudless sunny sky.

Departing Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva

Last night we increased to full sail during a lull to 6G8 knots.  Since then we've been under full sail - very unusual for us.  We had a 7/8 moon for almost the entire night with spectacular sunset and sunrise.

Sunrise

We're on our way to the Tuamotus.  They're very different to the Marquesas.  They are an extensive set of low-lying atolls.  In pre-GPS days they were known as the Dangerous Middle.  Many have passes allowing access into the lagoons.  Looking forward to exploring an entirely different type of island.

Trust all's well where you are.

Daniel's Bay

Hi everyone,

After completing our reprovisioning, refueling and touring in Taiohae we sailed the 6nm W to Daniel's Bay.  This is a much nicer anchorage, although still a little rolly.  And the small village ashore has potable fresh water available close to the creek mouth there.

There was a 2m swell and 15G20 E wind for our quick passage.  Entering the bay is quite interesting with the swell bouncing off the rocky shore producing a 'washing machine' sea state.

Taiohae to Daniel's Bay track

Departing Taiohae

Approaching Daniel's Bay

Entering Daniel's Bay

Anchored in Daniel's Bay

After arriving we filled our water tanks from jerries, freeing them to be refilled ashore.  For our first night we were alone in the anchorage.

On day 2 we dinghied ashore an hour before high tide.  The creek and village are in the western bay while the anchorage is in the eastern bay.  We got in to the creek without incident, using our outboard, managing to avoid the rocks at the river mouth.  Once in, and with a high tide we continued up the creek to the landing.  What a spectacular place! 

Zen Again in Daniel's Bay

Entering the creek

Heading W up the creek towards the landing

Water tap in the barn close to the landing

We spoke with the family which owns the land and they gave us permission to fill our water jerries.  Having done so we then headed back out.  Unfortunately we struck a rock at the creek mouth and sheared off one of the two Torqeedo propellor blades.  We managed to limp back to Zen Again.  Happily we had a spare propellor aboard which we fitted.

On day 3 I dinghied ashore with another two jerries.  This time I rowed across the creek mouth and to the landing.  Rowing in was harder than rowing out due to the creek's outflow.  Later on day 3 our friends on sv Apres Ski arrived.

On day 4 we dinghied ashore with the Apres Skis.  The tide times were difficult so we only had half tide.  The water was very shallow over the rocks and we paddled over them.  The water was shallow in patches all the way to the landing.

Once ashore we spoke with the local family and they directed us to the other families which sell fruit, provide meals and collect the fee to walk to the waterfall.  With all that arranged we headed off along the walk.  Nicki and I only walked to the lookout from where the waterfall is visible.  The Apres Skis went a little further - to the signs warning of falling rocks!

Old village house

Village Chapel

The first river crossing

The rocky path

Waterfall Lookout

Tiki just outside the village

Back at the village I filled another two jerries, giving us full tanks and all but one full water jerries.  Shortly afterwards the Apres Skis arrived and we enjoyed a great mid-afternoon meal of tuna, salad, breadfruit and plantain chips, followed by flambeed banana.  Very nice indeed.

View towards the bay from the village

Heading home

Nicki hitched a ride with the Apres Skis while I rowed the water jerries home.  We then had a great sundowner aboard Apres Ski.  It was fun spending the day with them again.

So now we're fully restocked for the Tuamotus.  And there's a very good looking weather window.  For our last night in the anchorage there were six boats present.

Trust all's well where you are!