Hi everyone,
We had a great 90nm passage from Marigot Bay in St Martin to Road Town in the BVIs. It was an overnighter and we arrived yesterday just before noon. At present the only clearing-in ports in the BVIs are Road Town and West End.
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| Approaching the BVIs |
We had submitted our arrival documentation on SailClear and had Covid-19 Rapid Antigen Tests on the day of departure. The SailClear online arrival form caught us out by asking for a Health Declaration Form, but skipping it didn't cause a problem. Clearing-in officials expect SailClear to have been used and want your Arrival Notification ID number.
Here are our overall track, arrival track and graphs. The overall track shows us gybing downwind as usual, through Necker Passage then down the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Road Town. The graphs show it was a pretty quick passage with a steady 20 knot wind with gusts to 30. We had several rain showers, one of which was quite heavy.
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| Overall Track |
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| Arrival Track |
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| Graphs |
Here are the vital stats for the passage…
• Distances/Speeds
• Route Distance = 94nm
• Logged Distance = 96nm
• GPS Distance = 103nm
• Duration = 18h45
• Average boat speed = 5.1 kt
• Average speed over ground = 5.5 kt
• Minimum boat speed = 4.5 kt
• Maximum boat speed = 6.3 kt (surfs to 8 kt)
• Weather
• Minimum wind speed = 7 kt
• Average wind speed = 20 kt
• Maximum wind speed = gusts to 32 kt
• Apparent wind angle range = 120 to 160
• Seas up to 1.5m
• Swell up to 1m
• Bands of clouds with patches of scattered cloud. Rain showers. 3/4 waxing moon.
• Engine
• Total = 1 hour, mainly manoeuvring in Road Town harbour
The passage overnight positioned us at the entrance to Necker Passage at dawn. From there we sailed around Necker Island and down the Sir Francis Drake channel to Road Town. It was fun to again see the islands we visited in 2016. Sad to know the Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda is no more - destroyed by a hurricane and not rebuilt. We hung a FSC burgee in their bar and wonder where that is now.
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| Approaching the Necker Passage |
On arrival we called Road Town Port Control on VHF ch 16. They moved us to ch 17 and advised we could pick up a white mooring ball. At the time it was blowing 20+ knots straight into the harbour with seas to match. As the track shows we had a look at the anchorage area further north but the boats there were pitching heavily. So we picked up a mooring buoy as they looked in good condition with much bigger boats on some of them.
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| Approaching Road Town |
After sorting out the boat and ensuring the mooring was holding we prepared the dinghy. The instructions were to dinghy ashore to Dock D at the Ferry Terminal. We did so but found the dock had a nasty sea running. We bailed and returned to Zen Again. An hour later when conditions had improved a little we tried again. A ferry came in while we were en route and it provided a very nice lee for us. So the 'big tip' is go in after a ferry docks!
Once alongside the jetty the Port Officer had us walk the dinghy right to the foot of the jetty. From there he directed us into the Ferry Terminal to the Port Authority desk where we paid US$34 ($1/foot) port fees then the Health desk where our vaccination and test certificates were checked. Next it was the immigration desk where we filled out arrival forms, requesting a 30 day stay. From there to the Customs desk where we paid US$10/person environment levy plus $10 customs fee. Finally back to immigration to collect our stamped passports.
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| Zen Again moored, from Conch Charter marina |
This morning weather conditions had improved and we dinghied in to the Conch Charters jetty who own the moorings. Apparently they never go out to collect the US$30/night fee, but donate any fees collected to a local charity. Their toilet and shower facilities aren't available to mooring users.
From there we dinghied to TMM Charters which allowed us to leave our dinghy there for free. They also said we could use their toilets and showers for free which was very generous. Ask nicely!
Adjacent to Conch and TMM is a small but well stocked supermarket. It is clearly aimed at charter boat provisioning and seemed expensive. But it's close to the moorings and avoids dinghying around the long cruise liner jetty into town or lugging supplies from town.
From there it's a 10 minute walk into Road Town. Half way there is the Ferry Terminal. The photo below shows dock D. You're NOT welcome there unless clearing in!
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| Ferry Terminal D dock - secure dinghy at foot of the jetty |
Road Town turned out to be surprisingly small. But it's colourful and lively with street stalls selling fresh produce and tourist stuff. There's a cruise liner dock and their passengers are well catered for. After exploring the town we walked down to the Village Cay Marina/Hotel where we had brunch at their restaurant. Good food and atmosphere with a view over their marina. The marina charges US$60/day for a 34 footer.
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| Village Cay Marina dinghy dock in 'downtown' Road Town |
On our way back to the boat we bought 1 lb (0.5 kg) of root ginger for US$3 at a street-side stall which Nicki tells me is super cheap!
This afternoon we sailed out of Road Town in bright sunshine, heading south for Norman Island. Road Town was soaked shortly after by a heavy rain storm. In turn we were soaked and wind-blown as we entered The Bight on Norman Island to anchor. There is very little room to anchor in this bay and we again gave up and picked up a mooring, soaked to the skin!
Our plan is to sail around the BVIs in a leisurely manner anti-clockwise over the next three weeks. We'll end up at Sopers Hole (West End) where we can clear out for the Bahamas. Here's hoping we get better at arriving in less dramatic conditions! Great to be back in the BVIs!
Trust all's well where you are!
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