Eleuthera North to Great Abacos

Hi everyone,

Nearly a month since our last blog.  We've been weather-bound in several safe anchorages, slowly making our way north as conditions allowed.

Stormy Weather!

From Starved Bay at the S of Eleuthera Island we headed north on 20th May.  We had a nice 7G12 E breeze which gave us a lovely sail.  We anchored in the little bay between Cupid and Laughing Bird Cays.  A lovely anchorage with good holding, but good only with E in the breeze.  A short 200m dinghy ride ashore to Governor's Harbour.

We spent three nights at Governor's Harbour.  It was the first town established in the Bahamas - in the 1640s.  There are several pretty churches, the buildings are brightly painted and there's an awesome bakery.

View of Cupid Cay

Governor's Harbour

Nice old Church

Inside the Church

Government Building

At the Hot Buns Bakery

On the 23rd May we headed onward.  Stormy weather was coming and we wanted the all-round protection of Hatchet Bay.  It was a 16nm motor in light N winds.

Motoring towards Hatchet Bay

Governors's Harbour to Hatchet Bay

Hatchet Bay Arrival

We spent two weeks sheltering in Hatchet Bay.  Got ashore several times to stretch our legs and have a burger and beers at Farrington's.  Met several cruisers.  Didn't drag anchor (although many did).  We also used the laundry since drying anything aboard wasn't likely!

Re-entering Hatchet Bay

Stormy weather

Hatchet Bay Laundry

Hatchet Bay sunset

Another thunderstorm approaching

On the 5th June we escaped Hatchet Bay.  There was no wind but it was a good opportunity to move on to Royal Island - another anchorage with all-round protection.  We had to time our run to pass through Current Cut at high tide since the approaches are shallow and the currents fierce.

Hatchet Bay to Royal Island

Royal Island Arrival

Motoring towards Current Cut

Current Cut at high tide

Approaching Royal Island

We stayed at Royal Island for a week.  The day before we left we had a severe thunderstorm with 30G40 winds.  For the first time ever our Manson Supreme was yanked out of the sand when the initial gust front hit.  Thankfully it bit again about 20 metres downwind and held.  For 15 minutes we motored into the breeze to reduce the boat's swinging and the load on the anchor.  Not much fun.

Royal Island Squall

Overall Royal Island is a good anchorage.  The holding is good - exceptional situations aside.  It took several minutes to gradually lever the anchor out of the sand when we did leave - it had totally buried itself and just kept digging during the squall!  The island is private and there are no cruiser facilities there.

On 13th June we mostly motored the 65nm from Royal Island to Marsh Harbour.  Our patience was running out so we gritted our teeth and got the job done.  It was good to get to the Abacos.  Lots of cruisers here at Marsh Harbour.

Royal Island to Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour Arrival

For our first night in Marsh Harbour we anchored in the bay.  The next day we moved into Conch Inn Marina which has been rebuilt following hurricane Dorian 4 years ago.  Much of Marsh Harbour is still in poor shape but the marina is very nice and there are good supermarkets within walking distance.

Since arriving in Marsh Harbour we've filled our fuel tanks for the first time since Santa Marta in Colombia.  And we had a big provisioning run to the supermarket, having to get a taxi back (for only $6).  The marina bar/cafe is nice and the showers are marvellous!

Anchored in Marsh Harbour

Hurricane-damaged shoreline and ex-marina

Hurricane-damaged shopping centre

Conch Inn Marina

Burgers at Snappas Bar

The weather has continued to be unsettled here in Marsh Harbour.  We've had at least one thunderstorm every day so far with winds over 30 knots.  They're forming over Florida and moving eastward to us.  Coming from the west they force water into the harbour, significantly raising the water level.

Conch Inn Marina Squall

We're hopeful that the weather will improve soon.  Easterly winds are forecast to resume and if so we'll head out to explore some of the Cays to our NW.  We expect to return to Marsh Harbour before quitting the Bahamas in several weeks.

Trust all's well where you are!