Porto Santo to Ensenada da Abra

Hi everyone,

Yesterday we sailed the 30nm from Porto Santo to the bay on the S side of the E end of Madeira.  We departed at 1330 following our long morning walk (see preceding post).

Anchored at Ensenada da Abra

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival

Graphs

We sailed south under full sail on a nice broad reach but the wind was gradually dying.  After gybing our ETA was an hour after sunset so the engine came on to get pull that back.  We motor-sailed in at 7 knots and arrived at sunset.

Farewell Porto Santo

Spectacular sunset approach to Madeira

Approaching the anchorage.

Ensenada da Abra is a great anchorage with good holding in sand.  The surrounding hills are spectacular, especially in the sunrise and sunset light.  The rocks vary from sandstone to volcanic.  Top spot.

Porto Santo

Hi everyone,

We spent six nights at Porto Santo.  What a wonderful island!  We were in company with OCC SVs Metzi and Asteria.

Central Porto Santo

Through pure luck we were here for Porto Santo's Columbus Festival.  The festival commemorates the return of Columbus to his family on Porto Santo.  It runs over four days starting with a re-enactment of his return.  It's a great show.

Replica vessel in Porto Santo for re-enactment

Columbus coming ashore

Bands

Music on main stage

In the stocks

Fire show

Fire breathing

Final show

We repeated our tour of the island with Porto Santo Destination Tours.  In 2021 we did the tour with SVs Revision II and Matusadona.  This time we repeated it with new friends.

36 boats at anchor, vice 3 in 2021!

OCC Rocks!

Ice cream on every outing!

On Sunday morning we had a brunch braai aboard Metzi.  We brought the champers.

Metzi Brunch

On our final morning we went for a three hour walk with cruising friend Yoshi.  We met Yoshi in the Caribbean and again in Porto Santo (twice now).  He guided us on a walk around the eastern part of the island.  The highlight was a sandstone crevice.  Thanks Yoshi!

Nicki & Yoshi

It was great to revisit Porto Santo.  Next we head for Madeira.

Trust all's well where you are.

Ponta Delgada to Porto Santo Passage Summary

Hi everyone,

We had a pretty good 5 day, 4 night passage from Ponta Delgada on the Azores island of San Miguel to Porto Santo in the Madeiras.  We arrived at 1630 Azores time (1730 local).  The passage was mostly a very close reach with an ENE wind instead of the forecast NE wind.  We motored for 10 hours on departure, then for 4 hours on arrival, due to lack of wind and slatting sails.

Zen Again & Metzi at Porto Santo

We sailed in loose company with Moody 44 OCC sv Metzi, departing within an hour of each-other.  In the lighter winds we held on to them, but they 'walked away' when the breeze got up.  We finished about 6 hours after them.

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival

Graphs

Here are the vital stats…

    • Distances/Speeds

        • Route Distance = 542nm

        • Log Distance = 548nm\

        • Track Distance = 549nm

        • Duration = 4 days 8 hours

        • Average speed over ground = 5.3 kt

        • Average day's run = 127nm

        • Best day's run = 131nm

        • Minimum boat speed = 3.5 kt

        • Maximum boat speed = 7 kt

    • Weather

        • Minimum wind speed = 1 kt

        • Average wind speed = 10 knots

        • Maximum wind speed = 18 with gusts to 24

        • Apparent wind angle range = 50 to 150

        • Seas up to 1m

        • Swell up to 2m

        • Overcast each morning with occasional light rain showers, clearing most afternoons

    • Engine

        • Total = 14 hours

        • Driving = 14 hours

        • Charging = 0 hours

    • Failures

        • Water leak at a foredeck fitting flowing into the head bilge via headliner and stringers

    • Stars

        • Tasker mainsail and Tides Marine SailTrack

        • WindPilot vane gear (steered well when apparent wind over 10 knots)

Departing Ponta Delgada

Most of the passage was a close reach, almost 'full & by'.  Sheets eased only very slightly.  Full main and 1 to 2 furls in the yankee.  During stronger winds we dropped a single reef in the main.  We had a nice waxing moon, nearly full on our last night at sea.

Sailing under cloudy skies...

...and occasional sun

The last night and day of the passage saw the wind backing slowly around into the N.  This allowed us to ease sheets but reduced apparent wind.  Overnight we put a reef in the main to reduce slatting and carried on sailing with the full yankee.  That worked pretty well.  Eventually in the last afternoon we were running out of time to arrive in daylight and the apparent wind was dying and well aft so we motored in.

During the passage we tested our SSB with sv Metzi.  And we learned our Vesper Cortex AIS transmit range (with new Class B SOTDMA) has 18nm range.  That's about double the range of old Class B transmitters. 

Ahoy Porto Santo

Approaching the anchorage

It's great to be back in Porto Santo.  Last time we were here was 2021 when Covid certificates were necessary and the number of cruisers fewer.  By happy accident we're here for their annual Christopher Columbus festival which should be fun to see.

After arrival we met the crew of OCC sv Asteria.  They're joining the OCC Macaronesia cruise in company.  We hope to sail in company with them, sv Metzi and others for the next few weeks.

The foredeck leak has been happening since we departed St Pierre.  Its origin wasn't clear and passage by passage we're figuring out ' who dun it'.  Yes, as usual with water leaks, its a detective story.

We hope this was our last windward passage for a while.  Looking forward to some downwind sailing!

Trust all's well where you are.

Porto Santo Inbound Day 2

Hi everyone,
At 1200 today we were at 33 07N 016 42W steering 125M, motoring at 5 knots. The motor came on at 1140 when the slatting of the sails became too regular and too violent. Overcast sky clearing. The wind was 7G11 from the N - on our quarter. Our noon to noon run by the log was 114nm. 22nm to run to Porto Santo.

Yesterday afternoon we continued close reaching to close the rhumb line. The wind ever so slowly backed. By mid-afternoon the sun had appeared and it was lovely sailing conditions with the apparent wind on the beam.

Overnight the wind continued to slowly back. Sadly it also eased which left us rolling and the sails slatting in the 0.5m left-over swell & sea. The main slats less violently when reefed so we changed from full main and single-furled yankee to single-reefed main and full yankee. That allowed us to keep sailing with speed varying between 3 and 5 knots. The evening was spectacular with a full moon and scattered cloud. By the early hours the sky was overcast again.

Soon after dawn the wind filled in enough for us to shake out the reef without any slatting. Our speed increased to 4-6 knots. By dawn we could see Madeira broad on our starboard bow and Porto Santo fine on our port bow. We spent the morning quietly sailing towards the channel between the islands.

Trust all's well where you are.

Porto Santo Inbound Day 1

Hi everyone,
At 1200 today we were at 34 05N 018 49W steering 120M, close reaching under full main and single-furled yankee at 5.5 knots. Overcast. The wind was 10G13 from the NE. Our noon to noon run by the log was 131nm. 150nm to run to Porto Santo.

Yesterday afternoon sea state improved but the very close reaching (close-hauled almost) continued. The sun came out for a period which was very nice. The wind got up occasionaly and we reefed the main during those three periods.

Overnight the wind steadied and backed a little. We sailed all night with the rig we have now. Zen Again loved it and averaged 6 knots over a couple of 3 hour watches. We used the backed wind to head up and back towards the rhumb line since we'd fallen south of it.

This morning the conditions have remained unchanged. The wind is supposed to back much further, eventually to the NNW. It'll be nice to ease sheets!

Trust all's well where you are.

Ponta Delgada Outbound Day 2

Hi everyone,
At 1200 today we were at 35 09N 021 04W steering 130M, close reaching under single-reefed main and triple-furled yankee at 5 knots. Overcast. The wind was 9G14 from the ENE. Our noon to noon run by the log was 130nm.

Yesterday afternoon we sailed through a line of rain showers. On the E side the wind was more ENE than NE and its strength increased to 12G18. The seas gradually built on top of the 1.5m swells coming from at least two directions. We were sailing almost close hauiled and it was a wet ride.

Overnight the ENE winds continued with occasional light rain showers. The boat doesn't mind these conditions but it's uncomfortable for the crew. Healed with a lot of pitching and green water occasionally back to the dodger.

This morning conditions improved a little with a lower swell. The sky is overcast with one or two small breaks. The forecast says winds and seas will moderate gradually. Hopefully the sun will return too.

Trust all's well where you are.

Ponta Delgada Outbound Day 1

Hi everyone,
At 1200 today we were at 36 20N 023 07W steering 130M, close reaching under full main and single-furled yankee at 5.5 knots. Sunny with 2/8 cloud. The wind was 9G14 from the NE. Our noon to noon run by the log was 131nm.

We departed Ponta Delgada at 0800 yesterday. We motored out of the harbour, hoisted the main and motor-sailed ESE in a very light NE wind. The light winds lasted nearly all day. At 1800 we were able to kill the engine and sail. This was expected and hopefully the forecast for us to sail most of the rest of the passage will come true.

We departed in company with Moody 44 sv Metzi. We motored ESE together. We held on to them for a while when we both initially set sail. But as the wind filled in they gradually pulled away. Once we lost them on AIS at 7nm we went into 'cruising mode'. We had a great sail overnight with a 3/4 moon lighting up the sky.

This morning we had a brief period with a reef in the main but it came out again when the wind moderated. Very nice sailing overall. We are heading towards Porto Santo, the small island off the E coast of Madeira. We visited both back in November 2021 on our way out of Europe. Looking forward to visiting these islands again.

Trust all's well where you are.

Sao Miguel

Hi everyone,

We spent five nights in Ponta Delgada marina on Sao Miguel island.  The marina is notorious for its surge and the associated snatching at mooring lines.  It wasn't too bad while we were there apart from one day.  We used our snubbers and doubled-up all the mooring lines.  Apart from the surge the marina is good.

Ponta Delgada town square

We were there with four other OCC cruisers and berthed alongside sv Metzi.  We spent a couple of days doing boat jobs and exploring the town.  Ponta Delgada is quite a large town.  The town centre is pretty with the usual Portuguese black & white paving, interesting buildings and lots of cafes.

Zen Again and Metzi in Ponta Delgada marina

OCC sv Spirit of Gaia

Ponta Delgada street

Ponta Delgada buildings

On Tuesday we booked a hire car with the Metzis and toured the island.  For much of the day we were with the Cabillito de Mar IX crew who also hired a car.  We had a great day touring the highlands, swimming in a geothermal 'pool', walking around a tea plantation and driving around the ialsnd.

Highlands in the clouds

Highland lake

Lakeside forest

View over a caldera to a lake

More lakes

Seaside geothermal pool

Coastal view

Amazing flowers everywhere

View over the tea plantation

Entering the town of Nordeste

Nordeste town square

Sao Miguel is our last island in the Azores.  It's been fantastic visiting so many of the islands.