Sunday, 29 November 2015

Richards Bay Departure

Hi everyone,
We departed Richards Bay at 0930 this morning. We are currently in position 29 33S 31 58E doing 4.5 knots on a course of 240M. Winds are light so we are motoring. Happily we have 3-4 knots of current with us. Our speed over the ground (SOG) is around 8 knots!

Another southerly buster came through on Thursday night and the main walkway was submerged yet again. On Thursday afternoon as the winds were building one of the finger jetties broke one of its connections to the main jetty. That led to a quick move of a local yacht and rearrangement of the lines of two visiting yachts. The maintenance of the marina is very poor and it is gradually falling apart.

Despite the marina problems we really enjoyed our stay in Richards Bay. It is a great base for exploring Kwazula Natal province. However it was time to leave and the weather window we're taking advantage of may even get us to Port Elizabeth. A NE wind is forecast to build over the next day or so and last until Tuesday at least.

We headed south from Richards Bay initially. We had expected to find current at the 200m contour but didn't find it until depth reached about 400m. It was easy to recognise the current - the sea state deteriorated substantially. We're both feeling quezy but it's worth it for the great progress we're making.

At the moment there is a light E wind which isn't enough to drive us along under sail alone. Hopefully it will build during the evening. That would steady down the motion which would be very nice!

Trust all's well where you are.

Friday, 20 November 2015

Richards Bay - St Lucia

Hi everyone,
Today we drove north to the town of St Lucia.  The town is next to South Africa's first World Heritage listed site called iSimangaliso (Zulu for "place of miracle and wonder").

We explored the town in the late morning, having lunch at the Thyme Square cafe which had excellent food despite a rather twee ambience.  We attempted a walk on one of the nature trails but retreated after a hippo roared nearby in the bush - so much for their being nocturnal!  From there we drove to the beach, where at least you'd have a chance to see them coming.  We walked along the boardwalk where we saw hippos in the distance, plus a couple of crocs and a shark.  Absolutely, positively not a place for a swim!

Two crocodiles and one zambezi shark (look carefully!)
We had dessert at the Angling Club from where we had an even better view of the same hippos, crocs and shark.  Then it was time to head for the sunset jetty to join our 4pm boat tour on the lake.

The park includes large areas of lakes which are home to a huge variety of wildlife, including over 1000 crocodiles, 800 hippos, many sharks and a host of various bird species.  The lakes used to be open to the sea but the bar has not been breached for 15 years and the water level is gradually falling.

Yellow-Billed Stork
Great White Egret
Yellow Weavers and nests
Flamingoes
Goliath Heron
Giant Kingfisher
Apparently hippos don't float, so in the photos below they're standing on the bottom.  It's said hippos can do 8 knots along the bottom underwater and 40kph ashore.  Surprisingly fast and agile, hippos kill over 3000 people each year.

Hippo and two crocs
Dozing Hippos
Hippos are nocturnal so our evening tour was a good time to see them.  Initially they were dozing in the shallows, only occasionally raising their heads to breathe.  Later they started to become more alert and wake with impressive yawns.

Wake-up time for a hippo
Big yawn - stay well clear!
Hippos go ashore - often alone - to feed at night.  They can travel up to 30km inshore.  Roadside and beachside signs make it clear one should be careful at night around here!

You are being watched
Sunset on the lake
Our hire car goes back tomorrow morning so we expect to stay in Richards Bay for the next few days.  If no weather window for sailing south appears next week we may get another car and explore some more.

Wednesday, 18 November 2015

Richards Bay - Drakensbergs


Hi everyone,
We spent Sunday and Monday at Didima Resort in the northern part of the Central Drakensbergs.   Previously we had been staying in Dundee so we drove through Ladysmith and Winterton on our way there.

Farming Country SW of Ladysmith
On Sunday morning we drove up to Monk's Cowl in the Central Drakensbergs.  The scenery is idyllic.  Obviously fertile farming country surrounded by tall mountains.  Very green in the valleys, although all the locals say they need lots more rain.

From the foot of the Monk's Cowl road we drove north to the Cathedral Peak road.  This road is quite different.  Just as spectacular but instead of fertile green valleys there is less fertile ground and many Zulu villages along the road.

Zulu village in the Drakensbergs

At the park boundary the villages and farming stop.  It is a short drive from the boundary to the resort.  A few more kilometres up the road is the posh Cathedral Peak Hotel which has been there for 150 years.
Entering the park
Didima Resort
We arrived at the resort in the late afternoon.  I had to "play" with the camera to get a usable shot of the peaks to the west.  Cathedral Peak is over 3000m high.  Beyond it is the "mountain kingdom" of Lesotho.

Late afternoon sun over the mountains
(Bell and Cathedral Peaks at right)
On Monday morning we visited the Rock Art Centre which has a lot of interesting information about the San (aka Bushman) people and their rock art.  We chose Didima in the hope of seeing such ancient rock art, having seen Aboriginal rock art in the NT in Australia previously.

Statue of eland outside the Rock Art Museum
Later on Monday morning, after the rain had decreased to drizzle, we did a 6km walk to Rainbow Gorge.  It was great walking through the hills with the surrounding peaks hidden in cloud.  We saw two springbok along the way, one of which was very well hidden in the bushes.  After first climbing a hill in grassy scrub with scattered Protea trees we descended into a gorge and a temperate rainforest.  Good exercise, very interesting and lots of fun.

Damp but awesome hike on Monday morning
Springbok!
Protea Tree
Rocky creek bed in the gorge
After returning to the resort we asked where we can see rock art.  We learned that we certainly can but a guide is required.  We arranged a guide and duly met Zama, a local Zulu.  Zama led us to Doreen Falls and onward (and upward) to a cave where a set of San rock art is in good condition on the walls.  Apparently anyone found at rock art sites in the park faces a fine of R10,000 if not accompanied by a guide.  Many sites have been damaged recently.

Afternoon walk to view rock art was in sunshine
The rock art was in a fairly large, open cave - very like some of the caves used by Aboriginal rock artists.  Some of the art has been damaged but much remains in good order.  The art is believed to be 3000 to 4000 years old.  The San originally lived in this area before the Ice Age.  They returned about 4000 years ago.  More recently they were displaced by Africans and Europeans, moving to Lesotho, Namibia and Botswana in search of safety.

San rock art depicting eland
San rock art depicting battle with lion/shaman
This morning we woke to a sunny sky.  Didima Resort is a fantastic spot with access to hiking ranging from easy (for the likes of us) to difficult.  One can hike to the top of Cathedral Peak and back in a day if very fit!

Sunny morning over the mountains
We're now back aboard Zen Again in Richards Bay.  We're looking out for a weather window to sail south.  Unfortunately the next week isn't looking promising at this stage.