Tuesday, 4 July 2023

Marsh Harbour to Green Turtle Cay

Hi everyone,

We're now at anchor in Coco Bay at the W end of Green Turtle Cay.  Since leaving Marsh Harbour we've visited the West End of Great Guana Cay and White Sound in Green Turtle Cay.

White Sound Sunrise

Our last few days in Marsh Harbour were spent exploring the town more widely.  We extended our visas at the Immigration Office since our 90 days was nearly up.  Each evening we relaxed at the marina's Snappas Bar.  It was a nice change from life at anchor.  Having a proper shower was very nice indeed.

Zen Again from sv Sanctuary's masthead

Facing the weather in Conch Inn Marina

Snappas at Conch Inn Marina

Colours Bar & Cafe is just along the beach

It's a good walk to the Immigration Office

From Marsh Harbour we had a great 15nm downwind sail to the West End of Great Guana Island.  The track shows us gybing downwind - great fun.  Water depth 3-4m until 'around the corner'.  We anchored in 6m over deep sand with very good holding.  Several rain squalls came through and we topped up our water tanks.  We spent two days watching the world go by there.

Marsh Harbour to Great Guana West End

Great Guana West End Arrival

Spectacular One Minute

Pouring Rain the Next

Great Guana West End

From Great Guana we moved on to Green Turtle Island.  We had to do a big 'zig' to let a rain squall go through before heading in to enter White Sound.  The entrance there is narrow and shallow.  But once inside the sound is very well protected indeed and there's about 3m depth over sand and grass.  We used a US$20/night mooring, paying US$100 for a week.

Great Guana West End to Green Turtle White Sound

Green Turtle Cay's White Sound Arrival

Dodging Showers

Approaching White Sound Entrance Channel

We loved White Sound.  Totally protected from the weather.  There are two resort marinas open, restored after hurricane Dorien.  Bluff House's cafe was open when we arrived but closed for the summer at the end of June.  Cruisers are welcome to use their facilities and pool if buying at the cafe.

The Green Turtle Club Resort/Marina remains open and also welcomes cruisers at anchor or moored.  Their bar is impressive with hundreds of dollar bills covering the walls and ceiling.

On a mooring in White Sound

Bluff House Marina & Resort's Bar & Cafe

Green Turtle Club Resort

The Bar

Cheerleader aloft with stapler

There are nice walks around the western end of Green Turtle Cay.  Lots of mosquitos in the bush, but great sound/ocean beaches.  Many of the beach-front houses are owned by Americans.

"Mosquito Alley'

Coco Bay from the beach

Colourful Sound-side Cottages

Today we motored the short distance around from White Sound to Coco Bay.  Anchored in 2.2m over sand and grass.  Very light winds.


We're hanging out here awaiting a famous 4th July cheeseburger.

Trust all's well where you are!

Monday, 19 June 2023

Eleuthera North to Great Abacos

Hi everyone,

Nearly a month since our last blog.  We've been weather-bound in several safe anchorages, slowly making our way north as conditions allowed.

Stormy Weather!

From Starved Bay at the S of Eleuthera Island we headed north on 20th May.  We had a nice 7G12 E breeze which gave us a lovely sail.  We anchored in the little bay between Cupid and Laughing Bird Cays.  A lovely anchorage with good holding, but good only with E in the breeze.  A short 200m dinghy ride ashore to Governor's Harbour.

We spent three nights at Governor's Harbour.  It was the first town established in the Bahamas - in the 1640s.  There are several pretty churches, the buildings are brightly painted and there's an awesome bakery.

View of Cupid Cay

Governor's Harbour

Nice old Church

Inside the Church

Government Building

At the Hot Buns Bakery

On the 23rd May we headed onward.  Stormy weather was coming and we wanted the all-round protection of Hatchet Bay.  It was a 16nm motor in light N winds.

Motoring towards Hatchet Bay

Governors's Harbour to Hatchet Bay

Hatchet Bay Arrival

We spent two weeks sheltering in Hatchet Bay.  Got ashore several times to stretch our legs and have a burger and beers at Farrington's.  Met several cruisers.  Didn't drag anchor (although many did).  We also used the laundry since drying anything aboard wasn't likely!

Re-entering Hatchet Bay

Stormy weather

Hatchet Bay Laundry

Hatchet Bay sunset

Another thunderstorm approaching

On the 5th June we escaped Hatchet Bay.  There was no wind but it was a good opportunity to move on to Royal Island - another anchorage with all-round protection.  We had to time our run to pass through Current Cut at high tide since the approaches are shallow and the currents fierce.

Hatchet Bay to Royal Island

Royal Island Arrival

Motoring towards Current Cut

Current Cut at high tide

Approaching Royal Island

We stayed at Royal Island for a week.  The day before we left we had a severe thunderstorm with 30G40 winds.  For the first time ever our Manson Supreme was yanked out of the sand when the initial gust front hit.  Thankfully it bit again about 20 metres downwind and held.  For 15 minutes we motored into the breeze to reduce the boat's swinging and the load on the anchor.  Not much fun.

Royal Island Squall

Overall Royal Island is a good anchorage.  The holding is good - exceptional situations aside.  It took several minutes to gradually lever the anchor out of the sand when we did leave - it had totally buried itself and just kept digging during the squall!  The island is private and there are no cruiser facilities there.

On 13th June we mostly motored the 65nm from Royal Island to Marsh Harbour.  Our patience was running out so we gritted our teeth and got the job done.  It was good to get to the Abacos.  Lots of cruisers here at Marsh Harbour.

Royal Island to Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour Arrival

For our first night in Marsh Harbour we anchored in the bay.  The next day we moved into Conch Inn Marina which has been rebuilt following hurricane Dorian 4 years ago.  Much of Marsh Harbour is still in poor shape but the marina is very nice and there are good supermarkets within walking distance.

Since arriving in Marsh Harbour we've filled our fuel tanks for the first time since Santa Marta in Colombia.  And we had a big provisioning run to the supermarket, having to get a taxi back (for only $6).  The marina bar/cafe is nice and the showers are marvellous!

Anchored in Marsh Harbour

Hurricane-damaged shoreline and ex-marina

Hurricane-damaged shopping centre

Conch Inn Marina

Burgers at Snappas Bar

The weather has continued to be unsettled here in Marsh Harbour.  We've had at least one thunderstorm every day so far with winds over 30 knots.  They're forming over Florida and moving eastward to us.  Coming from the west they force water into the harbour, significantly raising the water level.

Conch Inn Marina Squall

We're hopeful that the weather will improve soon.  Easterly winds are forecast to resume and if so we'll head out to explore some of the Cays to our NW.  We expect to return to Marsh Harbour before quitting the Bahamas in several weeks.

Trust all's well where you are!