Hiva Oa

Hi everyone,

After our short stay in Fatu Hiva we moved on to Hiva Oa.  It was a day sail of about 50nm.  A pleasant sail until winds lightened as we approached our destination of Atuona harbour.  We motored in.

Zen Again in Hiva Oa

Here are our track details...

Track

Arrival

Atuona is well known as a rolly anchorage.  It's not deep and the holding is good.  So it's a great anchorage if you're off the boat!  Forewarned of this we intended to stay only long enough to clear-in to French Polynesia and fill a set of diesel jerry cans.

Approaching Atuona

We endured a rolly night after arrival.  The next morning we were ashore by 0630 and at the Gendarmarie to clear in just after they opened at 0730.  It was a roughly 40 minute walk.  They were uninterested in our Zarpe from Panama.  They only wanted our passports and a bond or air tickets out of French Poly.  We avoided the latter by showing them our travel insurance which includes repatriation.

View from the head of the bay

From the Gendarmarie we went to the Major's office to pay our harbour and garbage collection dues.  Then finally to the supermarket which was surprisingly good.  Fresh baguettes!

Back onboard we ferried pairs of diesel jerries ashore to the Mobil service station close to the jetty and dinghy dock.  By then it was early afternoon and we decided to stay another night to host an OCC crew we'd 'met' on passage from Panama.

View of Zen Again and the harbour

It was great to get all our tasks done in a single day.  I believe Hiva Oa is a very nice place to tour, but what we wanted was somewhere to chill.  We were now free to escape to a better anchorage where we can relax after our long passage.

Trust all's well where you are.

Fatu Hiva

Hi everyone,

We spent a short time in Fatu Hiva 'yellow flagging'.  It was a great spot to relax aboard after our long passage from Panama.  It is a superbly spectacular anchorage.  We spent most of our time cleaning the boat inside and out.  And admiring the view of course.

Golden Hour

The Bay of Virgins anchorage has a reputation for poor holding.  We found a sand patch in 10m of water and had no problems.  Our oversized Manson Supreme and 10mm chain probably helped.  The chain was occasionally moving over rubble.  The anchorage is also gusty, but not dramatically so during our stay.

Brown fresh water run-off from heavy rain

Zen Again soon after arrival

There were about 10 boats in the bay with us.  About half were under yellow flags.

Golden Hour

The fouling of our hull from our passage was bad - above and below the waterline.  The gooseneck barnacles disappeared within 36 hours - eaten by the fish!  But the calcium disks attaching them to the hull were still there so we made a start on scraping them off.  The fouling above the waterline was the worst we've ever had, extending half way up the topsides.  We managed to get most of that off but it was hard work and that job isn't finished yet either.

Sunset from the Bay

The weather was variable during our stay with both sunshine and showers.  It can be quite a 'moody' place at times.

Moody Bay

Cheers!

A view into the Bay on departure

Trust all's well where you are.

Panama to Marquesas Passage Summary

Hi everyone,

Here is the summary of our passage from Panama to the Marquesas in French Polynesia.  It was a 4000nm passage of two distinct parts - to the trades and then in the trades.

Zen Again in the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Here are several views of our track…

Panama to Marquesas

Halfway home!

Closing the loop

Here are the vital stats for the passage…

    • Distances/Speeds

        • Route Distance = 3900 nm (S of Galapagos)

        • Logged Distance = 3903 nm (under-reading)

        • GPS Distance = 4337 nm

        • Duration = 34 days 20 hours

        • Average speed over ground = 5.2 kt

        • Average day's run = ~125 nm

        • Best day's run = 144 nm over ground, 140 nm by log

        • Minimum boat speed = 3 kt

        • Maximum boat speed = 8 kt over ground, 7 kt by log

    • Weather

        • Minimum wind speed = 1 kt

        • Average wind speed = 15 knots

        • Maximum wind speed = 23 with gusts to 39

        • Apparent wind angle range = 20 to 150

        • Seas up to 2m

        • Swell up to 3m

        • Many squalls, most of which missed us and were mostly mild (up to 30 kt)

    • Engine

        • Total = 123 hours (all except last 3 hours between Panama and the trades)

        • Driving = 123 hours

        • Charging = 0 hours

        • Consumed 200 litres of 280 aboard (65%), burning 1.5 litres/hours

    • Water

        • Consumed 180 litres of 280 aboard (71%), or 2.85 litres/person/day

    • Failures

        • Our Gen2 Starlink became unreliable when its GPS failed (Starlink have committed to replace)

        • Computer keyboard died (replaced with an alternate)

        • Head pump had to be removed, serviced and replaced enroute

        • Chafe on WindPilot control line due to rubbing against s/s tube - freshened the nip to fix

    • Stars

        • The boat!

        • WindPilot vane gear (in the trades)

        • Pelagic autopilot (to the trades)

        • Tides Marine SailTrack (made reefing sooo much easier)

        • Mac Mini / SignalK based NavCom system

        • Icom HF/SSB radio

        • PredictWind Offshore app (over Starlink) for GRIBs, routing and tracking friends

        • The Chef

Here are the usual graphs for the passage...

And here's how our electrical system coped.  During the first week we were motoring regularly so the batteries were in good shape.  In the trades they gradually trended down, mainly due to the long Starlink startup times after its GPS died.

Getting to the trades was tedious.  We had light SW winds but lots of squalls.  Most of the squalls missed us but they created a messy seaway which made sailing impossible.  Also impossible was motoring directly into the chop.  So we motor-sailed with the main strapped in tight.  This worked quite well.  Currents were variable in this phase and often contrary.

Once in the trades we were very lucky with squalls again missing us more often than not.  When we did get one it usually held no more than 25 knots of wind with sometimes heavy rain, and it usually passed on rapidly.  Mostly the trades were nice sailing under our trisail sized double-reefed main and yankee furled to suite the conditions.  Initially in the trades we could lay the route while broad reaching since the winds were SE.  Eventually the winds became more ESE and we had to gybe to and fro, reducing our VMG.  Nevertheless we beat some much larger boats who had departed with us to the islands.  Currents were favourable in this phase, often over 1 knot.

Since arriving we've been gradually cleaning Zen Again.  We accumulated many gooseneck barnacles below and around the waterline.  Interestingly they were eaten by the fish in Fatu Hiva.  Sadly the fish left the calcium disks behind.  We had our worst ever fouling of the topsides with weed and baked-on green muck.  The latter is proving difficult to remove but we're making progress.

Overall this was our longest duration passage by about 3 days, second to our 2016 passage from St Helena to St Lucia (passage summary here).  Once we reached the trades it was a really good sail with minimal drama.  It was nice to be sailing in loose company with our EBBYC pals plus several OCC boats.

Trust all's well where you are!

Marquesas Arrival

Hi everyone,
We arrived at the Bay of Virgins on the island of Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas at 0830 local time today.  Local time here is UTC-9:30.  That's a 34 day 20 hour passage done.   4337nm over the ground.  I'll do a Passage Summary post in due course with all the statistics.

Wow - what a place

Last night was interesting with a lot of rainstorms, an acceleration zone and contrary currents and winds near the island.  We went from a nice steady15G18 E wind to 25G38 very rapidly as we entered the acceleration zone off the island.  The island is quite tall so the wind flows around it rather than over it.  When we came out of that zone winds were 10G15 from the NW with a choppy sea.  And we had a knot of current against us.  So the engine went on to help us bash through the chop.

As we approached the anchorage the E wind was coming through the 'saddle' behind the bay, again 25G30.  But as we entered the bay the wind calmed.  It's obviously going to a gusty spot.  In the bay the water was brown due to run-off from last night's rain.

Here are a few images of our approach and the anchorage.

Island Approach

Arrival

Satellite Image

The island is very spectacular to approach.  We did so in the pre-dawn, initially with just a little moonlight penetrating gaps in the clouds.  After dawn a couple of  local fishermen came past in their tinnies and gave us a wave.  Then as we approached the anchorage our courtesy and Q flags went up.  We're flying both a French flag and a French Polynesia flag.

Early dawn light approach

Welcome party

Courtesy and Q flags

Spot the waterfall

Looking forward to a short time here resting, cleaning then perhaps exploring.

Trust all's well where you are!

Marquesas Inbound Day 22

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 10 13S 139 39W steering 245M, sailing under double-reefed main and storm staysail at 4.5 knots.  The wind was 15G20 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 110nm by the log and 118nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 3830nm and 4256nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 72nm.  Only a Fremantle to Mandurah Return.

Another dawn

We've spent most of the last 24 hours under reduced sail.  That's to slow us down for a dawn arrival tomorrow.  It will be exciting, and a little strange, to see land again!  We intend to make landfall at the Bay of Virgins on the island of Fatu Hiva.  It's not a port of entry and we don't expect to 'yellow flag' it there for long  We'll move on to Atuona on Hiva Oa, about 50nm north, to clear in.

The Bay of Virgins is famously beautiful.  Can't wait to see it!

Below is the usual screenshot.  Our group of boats are all slowing down for a day-time arrival.  Needless to say, we're the zigzagiest track.

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Inbound Day 21

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 10 18S 135 56W steering 240M, sailing under double-reefed main and storm staysail at 5.5 knots.  The wind was 17G22 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 118nm by the log and 132nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 3720nm and 4138nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 188nm.

Into the afternoon light

Conditions have remained quite stable since noon yesterday.  The wind has stayed around 15G20 out of the east.  The sea state is more variable, perhaps due to currents.  Sometimes it's downright uncomfortable.  But we're making good progress.  We gybed at dawn this morning and this may be our last zig.

It's now clear we won't arrive before sunset tomorrow so we're trying to slow down.  Easier said than done.  We plan to heave-to off the island if we arrive at night.

Sunset yesterday

Below is the usual screenshot.  We're covering sv Aura to our NE and sv Onyx to our SE.

PredictWind GPS Tracker

Our Starlink is performing unreliably.  Takes up to 2 hours to go online from power up, then drops out randomly.  Looking forward to getting our replacement Mini, but that's not until we get to Tahiti.

Trust all's well where you are!

Marquesas Inbound Day 20

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 10 12S 134 14W steering 300M, sailing under double-reefed main and double-furled yankee at 5.5 knots.  The wind was 16G21 from the ENE.  Our noon to noon distances were 100nm by the log and 131nm over the ground.  The log is under-reading again.  Overall we've logged 3602nm and 4006nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 271nm.  Only a little more than a Fremantle-Geraldton.

Go Starlink & Go SpaceX!

The picture today is in honour of Starlink, a SpaceX company.  They have agreed to replace our failing Gen2 unit with a new Mini unit, and to send it to Australia for us to have forwarded to Tahiti.  The old unit is well out of warranty so I'm very pleased they 'came to the party' to help us out.  What a great company with such fantastic technology.

The good sailing conditions have continued for the last 24 hours.  We gybed at dawn this morning, heading back towards our route with a nice E to ENE shift.  The good conditions are supposed to persist but only time will tell!

Sunset yesterday

The usual screenshot is below.  Our gybe is clear and we're covering sv Onyx.  Swedish 32-footer sv Aura is roaring in from our NNE.  The Marquesas are on the left side of the image.  Not far now!

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Inbound Day 19

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 09 40S 132 25W steering 240M, sailing under double-reefed main and full yankee at 5.5 knots.  The wind was 13G17 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 111nm by the log and 139nm over the ground - both over 25 hours due to our time zone change.  Overall we've logged 3502nm and 3875nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 381nm.

Deck Checks

Yesterday afternoon and overnight we had a very pleasant sail.  We varied between single and double reefed mainsail, using Kami the autopilot for the former and Kazi the WindPilot for the latter.  The full moon was spectacular.

This morning the good sailing continued and Nicki baked fruit buns - best ever.  What a treat.

Monday is Bun Day

Below is the usual screenshot.  We're 'covering' several yachts behind us - staying between them and our destination.  Let's Go arrived at Nuka Hiva this morning.

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Inbound Day 18

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 08 35S 130 22W steering 250M, sailing under single-reefed main and full yankee at 5.5 knots.  The wind was 13G18 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 110nm by the log and 132nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 3391nm and 3736nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 513nm.

Great sailing

Apart from swell-induced rolling it's been champagne sailing for the last 24 hours.  Only a few very mild squalls with a little light rain.  The almost full moon rendered torches unnecessary.  The 'stairway to the moon' on the water was mesmerising to watch.

Last night I spoke with a ham radio operator in Perth.  Amazing.  6900nm great circle distance.  Twas nice to talk to someone in our home town 'over the air'.

This morning we did our weekly checks.  Ran the engine for 30 minutes.  Dunked a camera to check the fouling.  The gooseneck barnacles are growing just fine.

Fouling increasing!

Yesterday I mentioned our Starlink is misbehaving.  Its GPS seems to have failed.  Connecting takes up to two hours.  I also mentioned our Zoleo device.  It is supported by PredictWind for tracking and provides a much slicker user interface than the Garmin InReach units IMHO.  It can be used standalone or with a smart phone.  It supports SMS, short email and emergency signalling.  The battery lasts for about a fortnight.

Zoleo Satellite Communicator

Today we're putting ship's time back another hour to UTC-9.  The next change will be to UTC-9.5 when we arrive.

Below is the usual screenshot.  We're pulling ahead of the Amel 55 sv Onyx and HR49 Xora is further back.  The boat to our NE is a Swedish 32 footer sv Aura.  They're sailing very well indeed.  The first boat to our W (in red) is Aussie sv Sea Change, a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 41.  They're getting away from us now.

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Trust all's well where you are.

Marquesas Inbound Day 17

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 07 47S 128 20W steering 250M, sailing under single-reefed main and full yankee at 6 knots.  The wind was 15G19 from the E.  Our noon to noon distances were 140nm by the log and 144nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 3281nm and 3605nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 643nm - only a Sydney Hobart!

I can see a rainbow!

Yesterday afternoon and evening were uncomfortable but fast.  20G25 average with rain squalls of 25G30.  And the sea state was nasty with multiple crossed swell wave trains summing to at least 4m. Yuk!  But Zen Again trucked on through and we hung on.  We were under double-reefed (trisail sized) main and storm staysail all night.

Dawn today

In the early hours of the morning the sky cleared and we had a spectacular 3/4 moon to watch the waves and the stars by.  By dawn the winds had moderated and also the swell.  Pretty nice sailing this morning under increased sail.

Below is the usual screenshot.  Hard to tell how we're going against sv Onyx in red just aft of our port beam.  Neck & neck.  But it's not a race right?

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Our Starlink has become unreliable over the last few days.  Some of our pals are having minor issues of start-up time but our start-up time is getting into hours.  And once online it drops out randomly.  So if our daily blogs stop you know why.  Our PredictWind tracking page is fed from our Zoleo Satellite Communicator so is unaffected.

Trust all's well where you are.

Marqueses Inbound Day 16

Hi everyone,
At noon today we were at 06 59S 126 06W steering 250M, sailing under double-reefed main and staysail (storm jib) at 6 knots.  The wind was 21G28 from the E.  We had just gybed onto port.  Our noon to noon distances were 117nm by the log and 116nm over the ground.  Overall we've logged 3141nm and 3460nm respectively.  Our distance to go is 785nm.

Under staysail & deep reefed main this morning

What a difference a night makes!  Yesterday afternoon we were sailing in light airs down to 5 knots.  I even had time to dig out our spare 38mm sanitation hose and refit the serviced head pump.  Happily it works, and so much better than it had been.  Peculiar how one barely notices slow changes.

Light airs sailing yesterday afternoon

Then in the evening the anticipated weather change came through,   Winds increased to 20G25 with 25G30 in squalls.  Lots of rain in the squalls.  One of the squalls was interesting with our barometer decreasing before my eyes - very unusual.  Here are two plots from our SignalK/Grafana system.  The dip on the barometric pressure is obvious.  The two plots are aligned in time.

Here's the usual screenshot.  We're the blue trace in the middle.  We'll be gybing downwind in this E breeze which will make it harder to stay ahead of the big boats coming up behind.  It looks like Xora and Onyx are no longer buddies!

PredictWind GPS Tracking

Trust all's well where you are!