Wednesday, 22 October 2025

Tongatapu Outbound Day 1

Hi everyone,

At noon today (Wednesday) we were at 21 13S 175 32W steering 230M, sailing with double-reefed main and single-furled yankee at 6 knots.  The wind was 15G20 from the E.  We departed Tongatapu at 0700.  We sailed through the Egeria Channel, around Atata Island, to reach the ocean.  Winds were ESE 18G22 initially.
Kazi the WindPilot in control
Here's our departure track...

Departure Track

We were once more in company with OCC sv Thestral.  They were 2nm ahead of us initially.  Once out into the ocean we had great sailing conditions.  Winds are expected to gradually lighten and shift into the NE.  Clouds have been gradually clearing.

Into the afternoon

Trust all's well where you are.


Tongatapu

Hi everyone,

We spent only four days in Tongatapu.  The weather and our expiring visas dictated we leave.  On arrival we anchored at the SE end of the harbour.  The next day we moved over to Big Mamas.

Big Mamas used to be a popular resort but was mostly destroyed in the tsunami a few years ago.  Happily no one on the island was injured.  Since then Big Mamas has been gradually rebuilding.  Currently they have a small bar and can put on Tongan feasts by arrangement.  They also run a ferry to and from Nuku'alofa.

In Nuku'alofa, capital of the Kingdom of Tonga

We had a lazy weekend at anchor off Big Mamas.  That included a sundowner ashore at the bar with the Thestrals and Silhouette.

Big Mamas Ferry

Beers at Big Mamas with Thestral and Silhouette

On Monday we ferried into town to do our domestic clear-in and to shop.  We had a good walk around town with a nice lunch at Friends restaurant.  There are great markets, bakery and butcher.

On the ferry

Nuku'alofa Port

Dinghy and Ferry Dock

Catholic Church

Church Interior

Great Coffee

Awesome Bakery with Lamingtons!

Ice cream at Friends

Friends Restaurant

Produce Market

Craft Market

It's always good to find the local Aussie HIgh Commission/Embassy.

Aussie HIgh Comm

Leaving Nuku'alofa

On Tuesday we returned to town for our international clear out.  Nice and easy once you find the correct offices.  We cleared out for Opua, New Zealand but will visit Minerva Reef on our way.  We can wait there for a weather window for NZ.

We had a great two months in Tonga.  Each island group is different and well worth exploring.

Trust all's well where you are!


Saturday, 18 October 2025

Ha'apai

Hi everyone,
We spent two weeks in the Tonga island group of Ha'apai.  The first week was spent anchored off Pangai during strong winds.  We then cleared out domestically and island hopped our way south to Tongatapu, visiting four anchorages along the way.  We sailed in company with OCC sv Thestral, a Northwind 435.

Dawn departure from Telefesia

Here's our overall track and graphs...

Track

Graphs

Our 6 days anchored off Pangai flew by.  On windy days we stayed aboard and 'spring cleaned' the boat.  Wouldn't want NZ biosecurity to find any evidence of infestation!  Thankfully all we cleaned up was dust.  Perfectly dry bilges and all lockers clean.

On better days we dinghied ashore to look around town.  Nice bread in the supermarkets.  Otherwise we only bought eggs and (drum roll) chocolate.  At last we can keep chocolate without refrigerating, so it's allowed back aboard.  Yay!  Temperatures are now about 22 to 26C.

Pangai anchorage

Pangai port from anchorage

Slippery dinghy dock

Ships anchor-off too

In town

On the Friday we did our domestic clear-out and motored down to the Uoleva Island anchorage.  The water was cleaner and clearer there.  We spent a couple of afternoons swimming on the boat to clean the hull.  We concentrated on recesses and niches including stern tube, skeg-rudder gap, top of rudder, cockpit drains and thru-hulls.

Uoleva Island anchorage

On Monday we had a great 18nm sail WSW to Haafeva.  Winds were moderate SE giving us a very pleasant beam reach.  The anchorage was well protected during our two night stay and hull cleaning continued, along with a morning coffee on Thestral.

Haafeva

Haafeva dawn

With sv Thestral at Haafeva

On Wednesday we headed 22nm S to Nomuka.  Winds were stronger with a little more S, making this a close reach but a great sail.  We motored into the breeze between Nomuka and Nomuka Iki to reach the anchorage.  We tucked in behind the reef in 3-4m of water over deep sand.  With a well established ESE wind of 15G20 1m waves were getting over the reef at high tide.  So this is an anchorage for shelter not fun!

Nomuka

In company with sv Thestral

Anchored in lee of reef off Nomuka Iki

On Thursday we headed 16nm onward S to Telefesia Island.  Another great sail where we continued our run of keeping ahead of Thestral.  The charts of the island are very inaccurate.  There's more water than shown within the bay on the island's W side.  We anchored too early and ended up in 8m over 50/50 sand/bombies - not good!  We should have used the satellite imagery which shows a sandy bottom further in.  It's a spectacular island with nesting flocks of boobies and frigate birds.

Kelefesia

Anchored at Kelefesia Island

On Friday we departed Kelefesia after first getting the chain clear of a bombie.  Could have been ugly but we were lucky.  From there we sailed SSW to Tongatapu.  It was supposed to be a light SE wind but rapidly became a moderate SSE and we were hard on the wind.  Another great sail.  It was such fun we stood on into the harbour and tacked E towards the anchorage, only using the engine for the last mile.  By then it was drizzling and the wind was picking up.  Big Mama's anchorage was a little busy so we headed over to the SE side of the bay to anchor for the night.

Nuku'alofa Arrival

Beating into Nuku'alofa Harbour

Fun Times!

This morning we moved over to Big Mama's, anchoring in 12m over sand.  Winds were lighter and it wasn't raining, and the wind is predicted to back into the E which will give us better protection here.

Anchored off Big Mama's

It's been great fun exploring the Ha'apai island group.  Lots of great sailing and fun to be in company with sv Thestral.

Trust all's well where you are!