Showing posts with label Cocos-Keeling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cocos-Keeling. Show all posts

Friday, 17 June 2022

Reducing Single-use Plastic Usage To Help Our Oceans

 As sailors, we are all too aware of the need to reduce our usage of plastics, having seen first-hand the terrible impact on our marine life. Plastic has touched practically every corner of the planet - even in the Cocos-Keeling Islands, we found the windward coast littered with trash. We often saw floating plastic debris when we crossed the Indian and Atlantic oceans, so the problem is real and pressing.

Today, there is an increasing awareness of the urgent need to reduce our dependence on single-use plastics. A recent ban on single-use plastic bags and plastic drinking straws in some countries illustrates this trend. We have made small but important steps on our way to eliminating plastic waste, but we still have a long way to go. 


Furthermore, in many of the less developed countries we have visited, reducing plastic usage is particularly important. Although some great work is being done by various organisations, many countries lack the resources and infrastructure for recycling. Because of this, it is even more important to not add to the growing piles of plastic waste in landfills.


This post describes some of the strategies we have used but this is in no way exhaustive and I would welcome any further comments or ideas!


Essentially our strategy boils down into 3 parts:

  • Minimise usage

  • Recycle and re-use

  • Substitution


I’ll go into each step in turn……


Minimise Usage

If I can’t avoid purchasing an item without plastic packaging, I’ll buy the largest container that fits in our lockers , and repack the contents into smaller containers for immediate use. I do this for bulk pasta, rice, pulses, cooking oil, and even toiletries such as moisturisers and lotions.

Repacking dry goods for short and long term use

In this way, I’m only buying one large container rather than several smaller ones, and where possible, I will re-use these containers when empty.  Which leads to my next step….


Recycle and reuse

If I can find a way or re-using a container or a bag, I will! Many foodstuffs come in sturdy re-sealable bags and I will re-use these again and again to store anything from sandwiches for a passage to flour and powdered milk. Strong plastic bottles work well for storing cleaning fluids (for some ideas on environmentally-friendly cleaning tips, please see my last post!).

Old sauce bottles work well for kitchen use
I'm storing tortillas in this reusable bag


Some countries offer recycling facilities, so where they are available, we make sure we recycle whatever we can.


Finally, we’ve found that some vendors are happy for us to return their packaging to them so they can use it again.

Not only does Mandingo sell wonderful tropical fruits, but he accepts empty bags to re-use. What a legend!

Substitute

The third step is to find an appropriate alternative to plastic, which is the best option as we avoid using plastic at all. Some examples include:


Using multi-use bags when shopping: many people now do this as a matter of course, and we are no exception. Many Caribbean fresh food markets sell their produce in plastic bags, so I bring my own bags to use instead. I’ve had them for many years but they’re starting to look a little worn, so I’m also going to make some more bags out of scraps from my huge fabric stash!


It goes without saying that if we can buy items loose or in a more environmentally friendly package, we will do this. The wonderful medina in Monastir sold all dry goods completely loose, so we could buy oats, beautiful dried fruits and almonds to make our muesli.

No packaging here!


Making your own: by making our own yogurt, muesli etc., we don’t need to purchase them at the store in their plastic packaging.

Making muesli in bulk

Plastic free alternatives: it’s possible to source all sorts of biodegradable personal care accessories, such as bamboo toothbrushes, biodegradable dental floss, laundry detergents and kitchen sponges. We’ve made use of all of these, along with re-usable and washable sanitary products. Even in countries where it isn’t as easy to find such products, there may be local alternatives. For example, we learned from our wonderful OCC Port Captain Martin that coconut coir can be used as a pot scourer and lasts for several months!

Our bamboo toothbrushes - but check carefully if the bristles are also biodegradable

Despite our best efforts, we’ve found that we still can’t completely avoid single-use plastic. There are times when I open a packet of teabags or crackers and discover that every single one comes individually wrapped in plastic (why???!!!)! But by following these steps, we’ve tried to minimise our plastic ‘footprint’ as best we can and I hope that you find these tips useful.


I’d also be really interested to hear any other thoughts or ideas about how others reduce their plastics use - feel free to comment below!


My next article will explain a few ways of minimising fuel and water consumption when I cook so stay tuned.... 




Wednesday, 2 September 2015

Cocos-Keeling to Rodrigues Passage Summary


Hi everyone,
Here is our summary of the passage, starting with our track...

Zen Again track
Now the vital statistics...
  • Distances/Speeds
    • Logged distance = 2052nm
    • GPS distance = 2040nm
    • Duration = 14 days 1 hour
    • Average speed = 6.0 knots
    • Average day's run = 146nm
    • Best day's run = 153nm
    • Minimum speed = 4.0 knots
    • Maximum speed = 8.5 knots
  • Weather
    • Minimum wind speed = 10 knots
    • Maximum wind speed = 40 knots
    • Apparent wind angle range = 90 to 160
    • Seas up to 3m
    • Swell up to 3m, from SE and SSW
    • Two days of overcast conditions, otherwise scattered clouds at most
    • Two nights with intermittent light showers
  • Engine
    • Total = 20 hours
    • Driving = 1 hour (departure and arrival only)
    • Charging = 19 hours
  • Consumption
    • Water = 80 litres
    • Fuel = 30 litres
    • Books = 8 (3 + 5)
    • Music = lots
    • Videos = 4
  • Failures
    • One autopilot ram failed after ~10,000nm of outstanding service
  • Stars
    • Mainsail with extra-deep reefs
    • Yankee headsail
    • Staysail
    • Autopilot
    • HF radio
    • Satphone.Me email system (over Iridium GO!)
    • Fridge
    • GRIB file accuracy was good, noting they don't forecast local squalls/storms
We had a wide range of weather but the entire passage was downwind (as expected).  We were prepared for much worse weather so were pleasantly surprised by the conditions and feel very lucky!  Several boats have said this was the best passage so far of their circumnavigation, and they're 2/3 of the way around the world.

We expected to be pooped and/or side-swiped regularly.  In the event we only copped one good 'un, which is almost unheard of.  I do think our keeping the boat moving well helped reduce such events, but the weather conditions helped a lot.

We continued to stand 3 on / 3 off watches which work well for us.  At times the on watch person cat-napped for 10 minute intervals.  The AIS alarm was always on.

We saw about 16 ships on AIS during the trip.  There were 3-4 a day or two out of CKI, then none for at least a week, then the rest during the last few days into Rodriguez.  The traffic was clearly in shipping lanes - initially to/from Sunda Strait and later to/from India.  We had to speak to two ships on VHF to ensure separation.  Both were very cooperative.

The passage was a great experience.  The boat behaved as well as we now expect.  We're enjoying Port Mathurin and look forward to exploring Rodriguez over the next couple of weeks.

Monday, 24 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 7

Hi everyone,
We are currently in position 16 16S 82 44E, sailing at 6 knots on a course of 260M. The wind is 15-20 knots from the ESE with a 2m SE sea and swell. We are sailing under full yankee and double-reefed main. There is a thin layer of broken cloud overhead which is letting the solar panels charge fairly well. Our day's run to 0800 was 149nm and we have 1125nm to run.

This morning we rolled our clocks back one hour to UTC+5 which explains the 0800 above. We aren't quite at 82 30E but we chose to stay in sync with Vulcan Spirit to avoid confusion over HF chat times. We just have to keep our eyes on UTC to ensure we don't forget to run the Indian Ocean Crossers' sked at 1200UTC this afternoon.

Yesterday the wind held in at 18-22 knots all day and most of the night. It's amazing the difference a few knots of wind speed makes to the height of the seas. Where yesterday we had about 4m combined sea and swell, today we have only about 2m. Much more comfortable! I suspect there is even lighter wind further south which may explain the large difference.

Last night was quite pleasant. For half of the night we had the half-moon creating a "stairway to Rodriguez" ahead of us. When the moon set we had a nice starry night for several hours until the cloud started moving in. For the first time on this passage we both slept our entire 3 hour off-watches.

The sked last night had 5 yachts on the list and we managed to get all their positions. They cover an area from 1/2 way to Rodriguez to near Chagos to CKI. Their nationalities include Australian, British and Swedish, with US and German yachts joining tonight when they depart CKI.

We expect the wind to decrease further over the next day or two. If it does we'll shake out one of the reefs to keep the boat moving well. We think we remember how to do that!

Sunday, 23 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 6

Hi everyone,
We are now at position 15 23S 85 09E sailing at 6 knots on a course of 260M. The wind is 18-22 knots from the ESE and we have a 2.5m SE sea and a very low SSW swell. We are sailing under single-furled yankee and double-reefed main. The sky is pretty much clear of cloud - a nice sunny day. Our day's run to 0900 was 151nm, exactly the same as yesterday, and we have 1270nm to run. We are more than a third of the way there!

Yesterday the wind held in at 20-25 knots all day. Cloud reduced as the day wore on and overnight we had a fairly clear sky. This morning the wind gradually eased to 18-22 knots which is in line with GRIB forecasts. Hopefully it won't decrease much more. The ride is still quite rolly but not as viciously so as it has been. We are starting to hope that the cross-swell from the SSW is behind us. Most accounts state the cross-swell diminishes west of 90E and that appears to be happening for us.

We're now pretty well settled into a routine, especially since the weather has been quite consistent. In addition to reading a lot individually we watch a video together during the day. We wouldn't be doing that if sailing conditions weren't good! It's nice to be able to spend a little time together (other than at meal times) since we're working "watch and watch about". For the last couple of nights we've adapted our watch routine so that the on-watch crew can "catnap" for 15 minutes at a time during their night watches. This is giving us both much more sleep while still preserving a good lookout.

There are now five yachts on passage from CKI with two of those departing yesterday. The evening sked is getting busier. I enjoy running skeds and our radio seems to be performing well. Also on the radio I've been using the Winlink station in Mauritius to test our backup email. I first contacted the station just after leaving Cocos-Keeling. The station is quite new and really improves coverage in the Indian Ocean. Sailmail users have less choice than Winlink users in this part of the world. Sailmail is a paid service while Winlink is free but only available to licenced amateur (ham) operators. Winlink offers Winmor as well as Pactor-based communication which is much cheaper to install.

Sometime tomorrow night we expect to cross 82 30E so will move our clocks back an hour. The day after we should reach the half-way mark. Both are nice milestones at sea. One of our friends in WA gave us a "care pack" which was not to be opened before departing CKI. That's scheduled for inspection at one of these milestones!

Saturday, 22 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 5

Hi everyone,
We are currently at position 14 39S 87 37E sailing at 6 knots on a course of 265M. The wind is 20-25 knots from the SE with a 3m sea and low SSW swell. We are sailing under "tripple reefed" (ie third furling mark) yankee and double-reefed main. The sky is 7/8ths overcast. Our day's run to 0900 was 151nm and we have 1420nm to run.

Yesterday the wind stayed under 20 knots for most of the day. Gradually cloud built up with more wind under each cloud. Eventually we had a few showers of rain in the late afternoon and the wind built to 25-28 knots. We gradually furled the yankee as the wind increased.

Overnight the wind persisted over 25 knots and the seas built to the point we were starting to be side-swiped by breaking waves. Nothing dramatic but the first time we've had green water aboard this trip. We put the storm boards in the companionway and stayed below for most of the night - just popping our heads out to check on things once in a while. Even with the reduced sail we were sitting on 7 knots for extended periods which certainly helped our day's run.

This morning the winds have abated somewhat and the seas have certainly settled down. We are still well reefed down since we're still doing over 6 knots average. Definitely in cruising mode on this passage - taking care of the boat so she'll take care of us.

Vulcan Spirit is now 80nm WSW of us. We speak with them each morning on the HF (using DSC Watch to exchange positions and then go to a voice frequency). They were doing 8-9 knots all night so scooted a further 20nm away from us in 12 hours. We expect to take 2-3 days longer than them on this passage.

Trust all's well where you are!

Friday, 21 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 4

Hi everyone,
We are currently in position 14 02 S 90 00E, sailing at 6 knots on a course of 255M. The wind is 15-18 knots from the SE with a 2m sea and low swell from the SSW. We are sailing under full yankee and double-reefed main. ie All very similar to yesterday except the wind is a little lighter. Today there's barely a cloud in the sky. Our day's run to 0900 was 148nm and we have 1560nm to run. Nearly 1/4 of the way there!

Yesterday afternoon was fairly cloudy with increased wind under the clouds. Only got up to around 25 knots of true wind though. The boat is loving these conditions and is making good speed considering we have next to no main up. The double-reefed main is oversheeted in an attempt to limit the rolling which is ever-present. Mostly it is gentle rolling but "sets" of waves/swell come through which make the rolls quite violent. I dislike rolling to windward, which is what we do when we come off the back of a bigger cross-swell and sea.

Last night the wind conditions persisted in the evening with the wind and cloud reducing to 18-22 and 1/8 around midnight. After that it was very pleasant. We now spend most of our time below (day or night), just going on deck to lookout every 10 minutes or so. We haven't encountered any traffic since our first evening out when two cargo ships passed well clear.

The moon is gradually waxing as our passage continues. We started with a sliver of moon for a couple of hours after sunset. Each night we get another 40 minutes of moonlight, plus a few minutes more from our movement west! Speaking of moving west we have been using UTC+6 time since departing CKI. We're looking forward to reaching 82 30E where we'll change to UTC+5.

While enjoying the conditions we've been able to organise replacement parts for a few items which failed enroute from Carnarvon to CKI. Firstly our LED tricolour is misbehaving, turning on both tricolour and anchor light at once. It's not a wiring problem because turning both on produces the strobe light as it should. Secondly we managed to shear off the volume knob on our VHF extension speaker which is now silent. Thirdly our automatic danbuoy inflated itself during a pooping so we're getting new water switches and strobes for it. The guys at Yacht Grot in Fremantle have been great sourcing the parts for us, including the light which is not widely sold in Australia.

Our longitude just rolled over into the 80s. Time for some good ol' rock'n'roll!

Thursday, 20 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 3

Hi everyone,
We are currently in position 13 15S 92 21E, sailing at 6.5 knots on a course of 255M. The wind is 18-22 knots from the ESE with a 2m sea and low swell from the SSW. We are sailing under full yankee and double-reefed (trisail size) main. Our day's run to 0900 was 150nm and we have 1710nm to run.

Yesterday afternoon the wind gradually built to 20+ knots. We were tramping along under single-reefed main and a few turns out of the yankee. We spent much of the afternoon giving the backup autopilot a run. It is working well, as is the primary unit. Early in the evening we changed back to the primary and put the second reef in the main. That was much more comfortable - we don't need to be surfing waves out here!

Weather conditions were very stable overnight and we made good progress. There were a few scattered clouds about so we had a nice starry night. No sideswippers yet but the motion is tiring. The boat is rolling a fair bit so bracing one's self is a priority. Definitely "one hand for yourself and one for the ship".

We're eating well thanks to Nicki's preparations. Working our way through precooked meals to which we add freshly pressure-cooked veggies. We follow the hot meal with chilled fruit which is great in the sticky heat at the end of the day.

Not much to report in the way of wild-life. We see a handful of birds during the day but otherwise nothing. Sadly we're seeing plastic debris from time to time, presumably washed out to sea from Indonesia.

Prior to the sked last night we managed to chat with Australian yacht Tuuletar (http://www.svlogbook.com/Tuuletar/) on 8297kHz. They have just departed Broome - about 1800nm away. There are still only three yachts doing the sked but we expect this to increase as others leave Ccoos.

Trust all's well where you are!

Wednesday, 19 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 2

Hi everyone,
We are currently in position 12 25S 94 42E, sailing at 6.5knots on a course of 255M. The wind is 12-18 knots from the ESE. Bright sunny sky. Our day's run to 0900 today was 127nm due to light winds overnight. We had 1860nm to run at that time.

Yesterday afternoon we sailed WNW on starboard tack in a ENE wind which started 15-18 knots but decreased to 8-10 by evening. It veered to E so we gybed onto port tack at 1830. This gave a much steadier ride since both sea and SSW swell were on one side of the boat.

At 1800 last night we conducted the Indian Ocean Crosser's HF net, talking to Mahi Mahi, Vulcan Spirit and My Lady. It's fun conducting the sked, but only if one's radio is working well. Happily we seem to have ours "sorted" at present. We expect a steady stream of boats to join the net when they depart Cocos, plus possibily some approaching Cocos.

We had a good but slow sail overnight with a new moon initially and then bright starlight. Only a few clouds passed by, usually giving a little more wind for a while. It's nice to have pleasant sailing conditions for the first night out. It was rolly but not too bad. We had the full yankee headsail unrollled and a single-reef in the main. We're trying to get the power forward to help get the wind vane working, but too little apparent wind for it so far.

Around dawn this morning a line of clouds passed over and the wind went further around to the ESE. This allows us to head directly for Rodriguez which is great. Won't last of course! ;) We're starting to see a foretaste of the "sideswipers" notorious on this passage. They are brief combinations of swell and sea which break. If you happen to be in that tiny patch of ocean when it happens you can get anything from a little spray to a green-water pooping. At present it's the former thankfully.

Enjoying the next bite of the elephant so far!

Tuesday, 18 August 2015

Cocos-Keeling Outbound Day 1

Hi everyone,
We departed Direction Island at 0915 this morning and are now on passage towards Rodriguez Island.  Our current position is 11 52S 96 19E, on a course of 290 at around 5 knots.  The wind is from the ENE at 10-12 knots so we're getting a gentle start to this 2000nm passage.

We departed in company with Vulcan Spirit.  They gradually ran away from us and are now out of sight ahead.  Over the next few days several other yachts plan to follow us so we should have plenty of company on the HF skeds.

Yesterday turned into our "one perfect day" at DI.  The sun was out for most of the day and the place is stunning in such conditions.  We swam the Rip again and everything was far brighter and more colourful.

Zen Again at Direction Island

A view in the Rip on our one perfect day

Yesterday we also did several pre-departure jobs aboard.  One was to prepare a plaque to leave behind on DI.  We used an old piece of teak which we engraved before painting filling-in with paint and varnishing overall.  It is now on one of the beams in the yachtie's shelter.  Another job was to visit Home Island to fill our Diesel jerry cans.

Zen Again's plaque ashore on DI

We really enjoyed our time at Cocos-Keeling.  It's a shame the weather was so bad at times but that didn't change the magic of being at such a place.  Nonetheless it was time to move on after 2 1/2 weeks.  We're expecting a few days of good weather but we'll have to take what we're given after that!

Trust all's well where you are.

Sunday, 16 August 2015

Direction Island Day 16

Hi everyone,
We're still here!  We decided to stay at Direction Island for another few days in the hope of experiencing "one perfect day".  Hasn't happened so far but conditions are better than they have been for 10 days or so.  The wind has swung into the NE which makes the anchorage very protected, albeit with a little swell getting in.

Masthead View

As usual, the time flies by filled with work and play…

Work:
  • Provisioning at Home Island following arrival supply ship
  • Fixed blocked sink drain
  • Replaced cracked nut on boom gooseneck "pin" bolt
  • Inspected rig from top to bottom
  • Collected fresh water during rain
  • Treated cushions and lockers with vinegar and cloves to ward off mould

Play:
  • Snorkled the anchorage and the rip several times
  • Sundowner on the beach last night
  • Morning coffee on Zen Again with the Vulcan Spirits
  • Cards night on Vulcan Spirit
  • Met new arrivals

The cracked nut had two cracks, each from one end of a face to the other and each on opposite faces.  There was very little holding the nut together.  Some combination of manufacturing defect, crevice corrosion and fatigue perhaps.  The nut has been there for nearly 30 years and luckily there are several identical nuts elsewhere and with less critical functions.  Vulcan Spirit had spares too.

The rig inspection found no other issues but it confirmed a problem with our masthead nav lights.  Whenever we turn on either tricolour or anchor light BOTH come on.  It isn't a wiring problem since turning both on produces a strobe which is correct.  The problem must be in the unit itself so we'll look into sourcing a replacement for installation later.

Resting Sharks in the Rip

I spent a few hours helping out aboard German catamaran La Medianoche.  Programmed their HF radio for routine DSC use, tested its transmit power and restored connections to get their Pactor modem working again.

There are currently 9 boats in the anchorage.  Three boats arrived two days ago - Bomoh (Australian), Y Not (Germany) and Chesapeake (US).  We expect there to be an exodus this week, with several boats planning to take the next suitable weather.  We and Vulcan Spirit plan to leave on Tuesday.

Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Manson Supreme

Hi everyone,
This post is dedicated to our anchor, a Manson Supreme, 'cos supreme it is.

Last night was an interesting night here at Direction Island.  The wind started to blow yesterday afternoon and it just kept building until around midnight when several boats recorded gusts over 50 knots.  One yacht further out in the anchorage recorded gusts over 60 knots.  The wind was steadily over 40 knots from about 2100 to 0100.

Our Manson Supreme

The wind blew from the SSE initially and after it peaked it swung to the SE.  While SSE there was a 1m sea running through the anchorage with lots of white water.  We weren't taking green water over the bow but were copping a fair bit of spray.  When it backed to SE the island created a bit of a lee and the seas were reduced.  Bands of heavy rain came through at intervals.

We were anchored in 5m of water over sand.  We had our 16kg Manson Supreme anchor well dug in from previous lesser blows here.  We had about 30m of 8mm chain out with a 4m snubber of 14mm nylon.  The snubber was protected from chafe by a 0.5m length of 50mm helisteel hose.  We considered letting out more chain but I was concerned that doing so would increase the shock loads as the boat "fishtailed" to and fro.  This proved to be a good call since we never felt really big shocks of the boat being "tacked" by the anchor.

British yacht Levada in the rain

It's no fun being anchored only a short distance from a lee shore when it's blowing a gale.  It's amazing none of the  seven boats dragged.  It shows the boats all have good ground tackle and that the holding here is excellent.

Aboard Zen Again we kept anchor watch until about 0100 when the worst seemed to be over.  At the height of the gale the boombag zipper unzipped itself and we had to go on deck to resecure the main with sail ties.  Happily it wasn't raining at the time but the wind was certainly blowing a hooligan.

Unlike all the other boats here we have no davits for our dinghy so had to leave it trailing close astern on two painters.  We had its anchor and spare fuel secured right in its bow to hold it down and the rain probably helped too.  It survived unscathed.  Likewise all our canvas survived (thanks Debbie!).  Our side dodgers are actually attached using shockcord which probably protected them last night and particularly during the gale on our passage from Carnarvon.

Australian catamaran Shayler in the rain

Today just about everyone went ashore at lunchtime to trade war-stories, collect well rinsed-washing and windfall coconuts and/or have lunch.  We had a great BBQ lunch with the Vulcan Spirits.  It was actually sunny for a few hours but is now overcast and raining again.  Happily the wind has been moderating and is predicted to continue to do so.

One of the skippers went over to Home Island this morning.  He chatted with a few of the locals who said winds of this strength are almost unheard of here.  Apparently they said "we don't get cyclones like last night very often".  It wasn't a cyclone thankfully, but it was a lot of wind.

Thanks Mr Manson!

Sunday, 9 August 2015

Direction Island Day 10

Hi everyone,
We've had a busy few days here at DI.  Again a mixture of boat work and leisure.

Work:
  • Fitted hose to protect anchor snubber line from chafing on the bow roller/chain
  • Fitted our old autotuner to Australian catamaran Shayler and recommissioned their HF radio
  • Laundry
  • Breadmaking

Play:
  • Swam the rip several times, seeing several sharks and many colourful fish
  • Explored the north end of DI
  • Lots of relaxing!

Swimming in the rip is a lot of fun.  We've mainly done so using the dinghy to get to the upstream end and then swim down with the current with one of us holding on the the dinghy.  Each time we've seen several 1m+ sharks (black tip and white tip), several large fish and many smaller fish.  Unfortunately the photos to date don't do it justcie but here are a couple.  Once we swam all the way from the main DI beach to the rip and explored the far side where there are some nice coral "gardens".

In the Rip

In the Rip

The work we've done for Shayler will give them a working HF radio system, something worth having when crossing the Indian Ocean.  Their tuner failed a few years ago but with our old tuner and their radio installed they are up and running.  There is a HF radio net operating amongst the yachts, including yachts on passage from SE Asia or Australia to Cocos-Keeling and on to Rodrigues and beyond.  Our own radio is now performing well and we have been able to talk with yachts approaching Rodrigues (2000nm away) and one yacht in the Kimberley region of WA.

The weather has been gradually degrading over the last few days.  Yesterday the SSE wind really started to blow and by evening it was hitting 40 knots.  It was uncomfortable since there is about 1nm of fetch to the SSE, which produced a chop approaching 1m.  Happily the holding here is very good and everyone rode it out without incident.  I was happy to have fitted the hose.  There was a lot of rain overnight and the wind gradually backed to the SE which reduced the chop but it continued to blow over 30knots all night.

The wind finally eased down to 20-25 knots this afternoon.  We spent the afternoon aboard Vulcan Spirit playing board games.  During the morning we topped up our fresh water tanks from the rain, just opening the deck filler and building a "dam" to direct the water into it with a towel.  Collected about 40 litres in an hour.  Dam design is critical so we'll do better with practice!

We expect the weather to be windy and rainy for a frew more days.  Winds look like being light for a while after that.  We're considering staying until next weekend.  It would be nice to see Cocos-Keeling at its best before leaving.

Trust all's well where you are!

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

Direction Island Day 6

Hi everyone,
The days are flying by here at Cocos-Keeling.  We've been continuing to work on boat jobs with leisure activities in-between.  

One of many beautiful beaches on West Island

Here's what we've been up to in summary…

Work:
  • Fixed HF transmit problem by replacing antenna feed cable from tuner to backstay
  • Filled jerry cans with fresh water kindly supplied by Vulcan Spirit
  • Polished much of the s/s on deck, some of which (the original s/s) needed it badly
  • Identified some chafe to be attended to (mainly where the lazy jib sheet rests on the staysail)

Play:
  • Snorkelled the rip at low-water - quite a few nice fish but will probably be better on a flooding tide
  • Sundowner ashore with most of the other boats here in the anchorage
  • Sundowner on Zen Again with the Vulcan Spirits
  • Day trip to West Island (via Home Island)

The visit to West Island was fun.  We (and the Vulcan Spirits) were up before dawn to dinghy across to Home Island in time to catch the 0700 ferry to West Island.  The 1.5nm dinghy trip was wet since it was into the chop raised by a 20 knot breeze.  We left the dinghies ashore and walked out along the jetty to board the ferry.  The ferry ride takes 30 minutes and all the local high school students were aboard, going to school on West Island.

On West Island we found the tourist office and then the Tropica restaurant where we had breakfast.  The motel was full of RAAF folks taking part in an exercise with their P3 Orions.  From there we had a walk around before finding a tour operator who took us on a 3 hour tour of the island ($30pp).  We visited a number of beaches and the site of various government funded projects which have mostly failed.  This place could be so much more successful but seems dogged by weak governance and a population too willing to take welfare instead of work.


Inter-island ferry at West Island

We returned to Home Island mid-afternoon and explored the village there.  The place is very neat and tidy but unemployment is high.  Many houses have several tinnies out front, so the fishing is good.  The Cocos-Malays are friendly but quite uninterested in visitors, even making money from them.  Businesses are open bizarre hours - for example the fuel supplier is open for 2 hours only and that only 3 days a week.  Everyone drives either a golf buggy or quad bike.  Nobody walks anywhere despite the village being less than 1km square.  Apparently diabetes is rife due to lifestyle issues.

Home Island village - very neat & tidy

We departed Home Island at about 1600 and just made it back to the boat before a huge storm cell passed nearby.  The low-level clouds under the storm were jet black and very threatening so we were happy it didn't go directly overhead. The anchorage here provides excellent protection from waves but little from wind.  The anchor is well dug in!

Sunday, 2 August 2015

Direction Island Day 3

Hi everyone,
Can't believe this is our third day at DI already.  We've been busy working on boat-jobs with only a little time-out to explore.  Here's what we've been up to...

Work:
  • Cleared the bilges of the three cockpit lockers - non trivial since they're large and fully loaded!
  • Dried and cleaned anything which got wet in the cockpit lockers - rags, hoses, ropes etc etc
  • Constructed a new jiggler hose for transferring fuel (old one's hose was too wide and didn't work well)
  • Transferred 80 litres of fresh water from jerry cans to main tanks
  • Transferred 60 litres of diesel from jerry cans to main tanks
  • Installed HF power meter in the navstation (to assist debugging our tuning problem)
  • Polished s/s fittings on deck
  • Cleaned below-decks
  • Extracted selected food stores from under cabin sole boards to replace food consumed
  • Major resort and stow of food supplies

Zen Again anchored at DI

Play:
  • Walked some of the tracks on DI, learning a lot of its history thanks to the useful placards around the island
  • Visited the SE point of DI to view "the rip" where we'll snorkel in a day or two
  • Located the famous "telephone box" which we may try out tomorrow
  • Had a very refreshing swim from the beach
  • Had an excellent BBQ lunch ashore with the Vulcan Spirits followed by more walking around the island
  • Had a pleasant swim from the boat - the hull is very clean still

The most widespread fauna on DI are the crabs.  They are everywhere!

Hermit Crab


Saturday, 1 August 2015

Carnarvon to Cocos-Keeling Passage Summary

Hi everyone,
Here is a summary of our passage.  

First the usual track and speed plots.  The images are small due to the satellite link we're using to post at present.

Zen Track

Zen Speed

Now the vital statistics…

  • Distances/Speeds
    • Logged Distance = 1367nm
    • GPS Distance = 1346nm
    • Duration = 10 days 4 hours
    • Average speed = 5.6kt
    • Average day's run = 138nm
    • Best day's run = 159nm (6.6kt)
    • Minimum speed = 2 kt
    • Maximum speed = 8.5kt
  • Weather
    • Minimum wind speed = 2 kt
    • Maximum wind speed = ~45kt
    • Apparent wind angle range = 110 to 150 (we don't "do" running, choosing to broad reach instead)
    • Seas up to 5m
    • Swell up to 3m, and never less than 1.5m (which was uncomfortable in light airs)
    • 3 days of 8/8 overcast, 7 days with scattered cloud
    • 2 days of persistent rain, 2 days with showers, otherwise fine
  • Engine
    • Total = 38 hours
    • Driving = 20 hours
    • Charging = 18 hours
  • Consumption
    • Water = 100 litres
    • Fuel = 70 litres
    • Books = 8 (3 + 5)
    • Listened to more of our music library than we have for many years
  • Failures
    • Cockpit lockers not fully sealed - only an issue when pooped but need to be fixed
    • Bilges outboard of engine beds drain through to aft part of saloon - only an issue when pooped
  • Casualties
    • Automatic danbuoy inflated in a flooded cockpit locker - just needs new cylinder/sensor/strobe
  • Stars
    • New mainsail with extra-deep reefs
    • New yankee headsail
    • New tiller
    • Autopilot
    • Satphone.Me email system (over Iridium GO!)
    • PredictWind Offshore app (over Iridium GO!) for obtaining GRIBs
    • Routine DSC calling for exchanging position reports and setting up voice calls with other yachts

We had a wide range of weather but the whole passage was downwind.  This was as predicted.  The strength of the wind was significantly more than predicted, but this often seems to be the case when GRIBs predict over 20knots.  We were prepared for strong winds and the boat coped with them extremely well.  We motored through calm spots.

The sea state during the passage varied but consistently had SE seas and SW swell.  This produced nasty "cross seas" which resulted in our being pooped and side-swiped several times.  The worst seas seemed to follow the worst winds.  ie The sea state would be fine during the worst of the wind but would deteriorate as the wind decreased.  I've read of this but rarely experienced it.  It was quite marked.

The two of us stood 3 hours On 3 hours Off watches and these worked well for us.  We stayed on WA time so the 90 minute time change across the passage "slid" our watches a little each day.  So each watch was a little different each day.

Overall the passage was a great experience.  The boat behaved beautifully.  No matter how tough the passage, arriving at DI makes it immediately worthwhile.  There are nine yachts here of various nationalities including British, US, Swedish, French and Canadian.

Direction Island (Cocos-Keeling) Anchorage Entry Notes

Hi everyone,
Charts of the approach to the Direction Island anchorage here in the Cocos-Keeling Islands are poor.  This includes current Navionics and Garmin charts, as well as older CM93 charts.  It would be easy to reach the wrong conclusion as to the best route to take in entering the anchorage.  Here are some notes on our entry.

Commence entry from the conspic and well-charted "Port Refuge" black pile beacon at 12 05.78S 096 52.00E.  Proceed east from there to the large red port lateral pile at 12 05.78S 96 52.66E.  The next leg is the interesting one.  Proceed approximately NE to the smaller green starboard lateral pile, leaving it close to starboard.  You will cross threatening-looking dark areas which are deep coral.  We had a minimum depth of 4.5m but others reported 3.1m.  From the green pile proceed NNE and pick a sandy spot - there are deep coral patches in the anchorage.

There is a jetty for the ferry which visits DI occasionally.  Avoid anchoring east of the jetty to keep out of the ferry's path.

Track in OpenCPN

GoogleEarth image with track in OpenCPN

Looking at the charts one might think the best entry would be across the coral-free sand further north.  We understand this has silted up and is much shallower than charted.  Beware!

Friday, 31 July 2015

Cocos-Keeling Arrival

Hi everyone,
We are now safely anchored off Direction Island ("DI") at Cocos-Keeling.  We arrived at 1400 (local time) after a passage of 1367nm by the log over 10 days 4 hours.  Entry to the anchorage was quite straight-forward.

We called Cocos Customs on VHF 20 when 12nm out.  They instructed us to proceeed to the DI anchorage and call them again when anchored.  They then visited us in their RIB and cleared us in.  Very friendly guys and clearing in was a no-fuss exercise.

We'll do a full summary post tomorrow, but in the mean time here are a couple of photos…

Approaching DI from the east

At anchor off DI

There are about 8 yachts here at present, including Vulcan Spirit and Apogee.

Cocos-Keeling Inbound Day 10

Hi everyone,
We are now in position 12 00S 97 13E, sailing at 6.0knots on a course of 325 in a 15-20knot SE breeze. The day's run was 159nm and the total so far 1345nm. That's a good day's run for us! Best of all we have less than 20nm to go to Cocos!

Yesterday afternoon the wind continued stubbornly in the SE, putting Cocos-Keeling dead downwind. There was more cloud than on previous days, with one larger cumulus even producing a light shower. Towards evening however the band of cloud moved away and the wind backed to ESE. This allowed us to parallel our route to Cocos, just being about 20nm east of it.

As the evening wore on the wind gradually built. We had a great "sleigh ride" for several hours, sitting on 6.5 to 7.0 knots consistently. Eventually the boat started surfing to 8 knots and got that "skittish" feeling down below. Every move the autopilot made translated into a "shimmy" down below. The wind was 20-25knots. The boat was loving it but it was clearly time to reef! Interesting to ponder the daily runs one could get racing this boat!

After reefing the ride was much more cruisy, although the rolling increased. We sat on 6 knots for the rest of the night. This morning the wind lightened and returned to the SE.

We've seen rubbish and some debris in the water over the last 3 days. Mostly plastic waste such as drink bottles. We've also seen a couple of planks of wood - don't want to hit them! Last night we saw (on AIS only) our first ship for 3 days or so.

It's amazing to know we'll soon be at Cocos-Keeling. I've dreamt of visiting this place for 30 years! Vulcan Spirit arrived there yesterday evening so we will be less than a day behind.

Thursday, 30 July 2015

Cocos-Keeling Inbound Day 9

Hi everyone,
We are currently in position 13 39S 098 38E, saling at 5.5knots in a 10-15knot SE breeze. Unfortunately our destination is now dead downwind so we are "zigzagging" our way there. The day's run was 139nm with a total of 1186nm for the passage so far. We have only 140nm to go.

Yesterday afternoon the great sailing continued. During the evening the wind veered to SE which was taking us well east of our route so we gybed at midnight. By 0600 the wind appeared to be going around to the ESE so we gybed back. Now the wind is SE and doesn't look like changing to help us out. Never mind, the sailing conditions are almost perfect and we're enjoying them. Perfect would require zero swell - we're not going to see that for a VERY long time!

Last night there was little cloud and a nearly full moon. It's amazing how bright moonlight shines. The varying moonlight makes sailing at night vary enormously, but it's always fun. Overnight we collected one flying fish aboard. Nothing unusual in that except that it was tiny - about 40mm long.

At the 0300 watch change we decided to have a cuppa. Kettle on. 30 seconds we flamed out! (sorry). In SE Asia a 9kg gas bottle lasted us at least three months. We now know that on the winter WA coast it lasts two months. Just as well we have two bottles aboard. At dawn the conditions were OK to swap the two bottles so flame was on again. The bottles are stored separately, one on each pushpit quarter, and they have to be physically swapped to access the gas line.

This morning we saw what we think was a sea turtle. We weren't close enough to be sure so it might have been some sort of basking fish. We're continuing to see a few sea birds, mainly a beautiful bird with slender wings. They have white breasts and are otherwise jet black, looking like they're dressed for a black tie dinner. They soar the swells exactly like albatross but are only about ~0.6m in wing span. Our best guess is some kind of shearwater but we're guessing since our bird book is buried somewhere.

Our ETA is early afternoon tomorrow. Must go and find our Q flag!

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Cocos-Keeling Inbound Day 8

Hi everyone,
We are currently at 14 48S 100 11E, sailing at 6.5 knots in a 15-18 knot ESE breeze.  It is a lovely sunny day with picturesque cumulus clouds scattered across the sky.  Definitely champagne sailing today.  Our noon-to-noon run was 115nm for a total of 1047nm on the log.  For reasons unknown we lost about 30nm on the log last night, which I have added back in the day's run but not the total (to avoid having to carry it forward forever!).  We have 250nm to run to Cocos-Keeling.

Last night the wind held in just enough for us to avoid motoring.  We were sailing at 3 knots for several hours and the sails were slatting but not violently.  Eventually the wind filled back in and we were sailing at 4-5 knots for most of the night.  The sky was clear for most of the night and was spectacular.  One flying fish stranded itself on deck overnight.  We try to help them back into the water if we hear them but this one didn't make itself known until the morning when it was smell that got our attention.

Today the wind has settled in at 15-18 knots and Zen Again is loving it.  We're romping along and barely taking a drop of water on deck.  We don't often have the top hatch open at sea when doing 6+knots.  Late this morning a pod of maybe a dozen dolphins checked us out.  They were about the same length as the WA type but seemed slimmer.  They were certainly fast.  They only hung around for a couple of minutes but it was great to have visitors.


We learned a great little trick from Robert and Lori of sv Apogee.  They suggested stuffing all rubbish in a plastic container.  They said it's amazing how much you can get in, and they were right.  Below is our rubbish after a full week, and there's still room for more!  It's great to no longer be just filling plastic bags, stowing them away and hoping they don't burst or leak.


Yesterday and overnight I worked on an issue we've been having with our HF radio.  It was transmitting very poorly and apparently failing to tune to each frequency.  I tried all sorts of things but swapping the microphone appears to have improved performance.  We spoke with Minnie B which is about 400nm west of Cocos-Keeling last night.  We spoke with Vulcan Spirit this morning and they were about 120nm NNE of us.

And finally, here's a picture of those clouds!


We bought unlimited data on our Iridium Go! plan so we might as well use it.  Hope you're enjoying the photos.