Our South African Weather

Hi everyone,
This post is carefully titled, representing as it does a sample size of 1.  Your wind speeds may vary!  This post summarises the weather we've experienced in harbour since we've already described weather on passage.  The weather has certainly been challenging but let's be clear - we've loved our time in South Africa.

Our expectation was for challenging weather.  We expected to have to wait for suitable weather windows.  We certainly did have to wait, and are currently waiting for a window for the short passage to Cape Town from Simon's Town.

The first photo below says it all.  Half of our courtesy flag has been blown away...

Our rapidly shrinking courtesy flag

We arrived in South Africa in Richards Bay.  We arrived just before a "southerly buster" which blew 50 knots gusting 70 (measured by the port office).  This buster caused substantial damage to Tuzi Gazi marina.  Subsequent busters caused further damage, mitigated somewhat perhaps by many boats in the marina setting anchors and/or lines to neighbouring jetties.

Tuzi Gazi during a buster

Tuzi Gazi after a buster

Richards Bay is primarily a coal export port so there was plenty of coal dust about.  However we found Zen Again was reasonably well washed by the rain accompanying each buster.

We stayed in Richards Bay for about a month.  We spent our first week there doing boat work then two weeks touring Kwazulu Natal.  We then waited about 10 days for a weather window.


From Richards Bay we sailed to Port Elizabeth.  We stayed at PE for two weeks, again waiting about 10 days for a weather window.  We took advantage of our extended stay to tour the Eastern Cape.  The winds were not particularly strong at PE but weren't good for sailing west along the south coast.

Incoming manganese ore dust from the shiploader upwind

The main issue at PE was the manganese ore dust.  If a ship is loading during a SE wind the boats in the marina are covered in a thick blanket of this horrible greasy mess.  We spent an hour up the mast cleaning the mast and rig before departure.  Once we reached Simon's Town we spent several hours cleaning the sails.  We found rust remover to be best for removing the mess from the deck.


Here in Simon's Town the wind outside False Bay may be 20-25 knots but in FBYC the winds are 30 gusting 50 knots.  If it's 30 outside it's 40 gusting 60 in the pen.  False Bay itself accelerates SE winds in particular, and the hills above Simon's Town accelerate them (and any winds with a S component) again.  It has been blowing hard for two weeks with only one brief one day pause.  This is forecast to continue with only a short window (maybe) on Sunday or Monday.  Apparently it has been known to blow for 6 weeks without pause.

Unfortunately Zen Again is stern-to the strong winds, albeit only 50 metres from the land which ascends up the nearby hill.  The gusts seem to land almost vertically on the water, occasionally whipping spray out of the water and across the boats.  The gusts are so strong we not only stowed the dodger but also closed off the louvres in the companionway boards.  We have to "chock" the boards to stop them banging violently when gusts hit.  The wind whips grit and ash from bush fires off the hills across the boats.  Our rig and sails are once more black on their windward sides, but at least it's not greasy manganese ore.  Tis a wild place!

We have been in Simon's Town for nearly 4 weeks now.  We may move on in a few days, but it's all about the weather!  We've used our time here for boat work, reprovisioning and touring the Western Cape.  It is worth planning coastal touring based on weather here - when it's blowing head inland!

Five closely-monitored springs

Jetty with the nearby hills in the background

So when planning to cruise South Africa allow plenty of time.  Adapt your entry port and stopovers to suit the weather.  Book your tours port by port to suit the weather.  Expect to have to clean your boat regularly.  A headsail cover is a very good idea.

South Africa deserves its reputation for challenging weather.  Close attention to forecasts, research into wind acceleration areas around the Cape, patience, Patience and more PATIENCE ;) seem to be rewarded with good sailing conditions.

Simon's Town - A Day Drive On The West Coast

Hi everyone,
On Thursday we returned to the lower cable station on Table Mountain.  To say it was windy doesn't quite capture it - we had to get down on hands and knees to avoid being blown away at one stage.  40 knots gusting well over 60.  Needless to say the cable car was closed so once again Plan B was implemented - a day drive up the West Coast this time.

From Cape Town we drove north on the R27.  We had a late breakfast at a cafe in Table View, one of the outer suburbs of Cape Town.  Sand was blowing from the beaches across the town.  Many shops have alcoves to ease entry and exit - they're used to big winds on this coast.

Further north we visited the !Khwa ttu "San Spirit Shared" centre which had an interesting exhibition of San culture and of current endeavours to save their many languages.  For example characters such as "!" are used to convey one of several types of click used in San languages.  The San are working towards achieving "First Nation" recognition here which seems entirely appropriate.

Exhibition at the !Khwa ttu San Centre

As we continued north towards Saldanha Bay we entered a area of wheat and hay farming.  The crops had been harvested and only stubble remained in the fields.  Some of the fields were losing their topsoil rather rapidly in the wind.

Goodbye Topsoil

At Saldanha Bay we briefly visited the small craft port.  There were quite a few yachts on moorings and various fishing vessels.   Apparently this is the only port in South Africa able to lift out large cruising catamarans.

From Saldanha Bay we drove to the fishing village of Paternoster.  This village is very clean and tidy.  All the buildings have white walls and some have coloured roofs - very striking.

Paternoster

From Paternoster we drove the short distance to Cape Columbine Nature Reserve.  The cape area is spectacular with the landscape featuring huge granite boulders and sand drifts.  The reefs offshore are isolated groups of large boulders.  Quite like some parts of the south coast of WA.

Art deco Cape Columbine lighthouse

Dramatic coastline near Cape Columbine

From Cape Columbine we drove back to Cape Town via the towns of Darling and Atlantis.  It was a fun drive with the highlights being the !Khwa ttu centre and Cape Columbine. 

Yesterday afternoon we returned the hire car so are now back to walking and public transport.  The car hire company dropped us off at the V&A Waterfront where we joined the crew of Vulcan Spirit to see the latest Star Wars movie in a "4D" cinema.  That's 3D for the visuals and moving seats, air blowers and scent generators for the 4th D!  It was a fun experience followed by a very nice meal in the Waterfront complex.

Today we're back aboard and still have a few jobs to do before sailing around to the V&A Waterfront Marina.  Jobs we did get done during the week include:

• Food restocking to last to the Caribbean (everything except fresh fruit and veg)
• Filled both gas cylinders
• Fitted autopilot electrical wiring and outlets on port side (allowing use both sides)
• Replaced anchor chain with new (one half of old chain rusty, other half over-galvanised)

And jobs still to do include:

• Fit new s/s autopilot mounts (still being manufactured)
• Engine inspection by mechanic to ensure freshwater system is OK

Trust all's well where you are!

Simon's Town - A Day Drive Through Swartland

Hi everyone,
Yesterday we had planned to take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain.  Unfortunately it was closed due to strong winds.

View of Table Mountain from the lower cable station

Instead we went for a 500km drive to the north of Cape Town to explore the Swartland region.  This is a  large farming area supporting vineyards, large orchards and huge grain fields.  Less arable parts are covered with "renosterveld" (rhino bush) - mostly low scrub with colourful flowers.  There are a number of mountain ranges in the region.

Flowering renosterveld

We drove north from Cape Town on the N7, passing fields of recently harvested grain and hay.  Both sheep and cattle were in the hay fields enjoying the stubble.  As we approached the town of Citrusdal we drove over the Piekenierskloof Pass.  Citrusdal is a small town just south of the Cederberg Wilderness Area.

From Citrusdal we drove east along a dirt road, crossing the Middelberg Pass.  This is a very scenic drive with views down into the valleys on either side.  Some of the renosterveld was still in flower at the top of the pass, creating carpets of gold flowers.

View from Middelberg Pass

Mountains around Middelberg Pass

From Middelberg Pass we joined the R303 tarred road which winds through an extensive orchard region.  It boggles the mind to consider the number of apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums and oranges which are grown here.  'Astronomical' might cover it.  Mountain ranges tower over the fields.

Bare mountains above, rich orchards below

The next range of mountains was the Gydoberg which is crossed at Gydo Pass.  On the south side we found extensive vineyards.  Many of the fields sparkled in the sun and we thought we had discovered the source of all sparkling wine.  ;)  Turned out it was only reflective foil fitted throughout the fields, presumably to ward off birds.

Gydo Pass

At the town of Ceres we turned west on the R46, using Mitchell's Pass to cross the Witzenberg.  We zigzagged west back to Malmesbury, passing through Wolseley, Gouda and Riebeek Kasteel.  The land gradually reverted to grain and hay fields.

Mitchell's Pass

From Malmesbury we returned to Cape Town on the N7.  The drive took about 7 hours.  It reminded us of drives we've done in the western USA.  Very spectacular scenery.