Gililawa

Hi everyone,
Yesterday we sailed from Labuan Bajo to the bay south of the small island of Gililawa Darat, on the north east corner of Komodo Island.  We had planned to sail in company with Kakadu but they had alternator problems which stopped them leaving.  It had been great fun sailing with them since Tangil Island and we hope our paths will cross again soon.

The sail from Labuan Bajo was fun.  Initially we motored due to light winds and to recharge batteries, then when the wind filled in a little we killed the motor and had a nice sail.  We were hard on the wind and used Kazi, our Aires wind vane.  The wind twice backed about 30 degrees as we sailed, lifting us up almost to our destination.  We motored again as the wind lightened off and the tide started pushing us north.

On arrival in the bay we found an Indonesian yacht on one mooring but the other free.  So we are now on a mooring for the first time since Dili harbour.  There are quite a few moorings placed around Komodo National Park to reduce damage to coral.  We are moored at 08 29.627S 119 33.083E in 28m.

Zen Again Track

This morning we had a fairly lazy time.  Early on we did some laundry and gave the saloon a good clean.  Then we swam a couple of laps around the boat, trying out some new swimming goggles (vice the diving masks we use for snorkelling).  The water is very clear and we can see the mooring line for at least 10m down.  It is a mini-reef in its own right, complete with orbiting (small) fish.  We spent the rest of the morning reading and listening to ABC radio online.

By midday the Indonesian yacht had departed and a number of Sail Indonesia yachts arrived in the bay.   In the afternoon we explored in the dinghy and snorkelled over the reef in the NW corner of the bay.  Visibility was about 15m and the corals and fish were great.  Best of all we saw and filmed a turtle feeding and then swimming away "into the abyss".  Here are some of the photos...

And here's Zen Again on the mooring...

Zen Again

Tomorrow we expect to move on to another anchorage on Komodo Island.

Labuan Bajo (day 3)

Hi everyone,
Today was our third day in Labuan Bajo.  On Saturday evening we had a meal ashore near the anchorage, yesterday we did our reprovisioning and today we took a tour by boat to Rinca Island in Komodo National Park.

The meal ashore was at the Atlantis restaurant which is built in and around the hull of a ship.  The bar is set into the lower deck at ground level, and two upper "decks" hold dining tables.  Around the "ship" there is a pool and an open area with bean bags to sit on.  All very civilised, plus the food was really excellent.  We had two courses and drinks for less than A$20 per person.

Yesterday's reprovisioning started with taking a "tuk-tuk" (small local boat powered by single cylinder engine) into town from the anchorage.  There were 9 of us aboard, which was OK for the trip in, but a little squeezy for the trip home with everyone's booty.  Happily there was little wind or sea.

In town we walked to one of the markets and bought some good fruit and veg.  We continued walking around town and Graham (from Kakadu) and I had our hair cut.  Interesting experience complete with cut, hair wash and scalp massage for A$2.50 each.  We visited the local supermarkets which stock some western-style food.  Then we met up with everyone again at the Mediterano restaurant where we had an excellent lunch.

Back aboard Zen Again we took delivery of diesel and water supplies so we're topped up and ready to go.

Today about 11 of us met on the catamaran Leu Cat from where we boarded the tour boat at about 0730.  The boat was about 60' - 70' long with a covered upper deck aft.  We motored from the anchorage to Rinca Island which is one of several islands in Komodo National Park.  The trip was quite scenic and the currents quite strong.  'Twas nice not to be navigating for a change!

Nice scenery enroute to Rinca Island

Our tour boat alongside at Rinca Island

At Rinca we were met by rangers who escorted us to their station and later on a walking tour.  At the ranger station we saw about 6 komodo dragons, most lazing in the shade near one of the buildings.  They are quite big, and somewhat menacing.  When they eat their prey they eat all of it.  About all they don't eat is buffalo and deer horn.  Back in the 70's a tourist was eaten by dragons.  All they found was his sunglasses and camera!

Komodo Dragon at the Ranger Station

On the walk we saw several female dragons guarding their nests, which are made on the site of large bird's nests.  The eggs are buried in a tunnel and then false tunnels constructed to confuse the male dragons which try to find and eat the eggs.  Nice guys!  Over the years the nest sites seem to become very well "tilled" and are quite obvious.  The challenge is to spot the female on guard duty - they are well camouflaged.

Dragon alongside the walking track

Another Komodo Dragon

Juvenile Komodo Dragon

Monkeys

After the walk we spent a while at the ranger station then returned to the boat.  We had a great lunch en route to our afternoon stop for snorkelling at a small island a few miles from Labuan Bajo.  The snorkelling was good with lots of colourful fish and coral, but unfortunately with fairly murky water.

We returned to the Sail Indonesia anchorage at about 1700 after a really good day "out".

Labuan Bajo

Hi everyone,
We had another great day today, sailing from Gilibodo to Labuan Bajo, or more accurately past Bajo to the Sail Indonesia anchorage off the Eco Lodge.

Zen Again Track

Last night we had a bit of fun when Kakadu arrived off the anchorage after having had to leave their anchorage on the other side of the island.  We helped guide them in over the radio and believe there's a bottle of fine wine with our name on it somewhere on their boat.  The anchorage at Gilibodo was a little rolly last night due to the left-over sea from the sea-breeze and a light SE wind.  Nevertheless we slept well.

In the morning we went for a swim, snorkelling over the outer reef and visiting a couple of boats for a chat.  At 1000 we got underway and with Kakadu in company we motored across the bay and through the channel south of Pulau Seraya.  We had to dodge several reefs, some of which were on our Garmin charts and others not.  The Garmin charts seem to be the best available for this area, but there are still omissions and sometimes offsets.  The reefs are easy to see provided the sun is high and one wears polorised glasses.

Sailing south towards Labuan Bajo

Sailing past Labuan Bajo towards the anchorage

Once through the channel, we turned south and had a short sail to the channel between the town of Bajo and Pulau Tenga.  The channel is full of moored boats and the port has an array of jetties and I think I saw a travel-lift.  From there we sailed the mile or so south to the anchorage where we anchored in 6m over sand/mud.  We are anchored at 08 31.087S 119 52.049E.

Under sail near Labuan Bajo

After anchoring David from catamaran Leu Cat came over and gave us a run-down on the local situation regarding reprovisioning, visiting town, getting ashore and available tours.  Very helpful.

We expect to spend several days here reprovisioning, exploring the town and doing a day tour to Rinca Island to see the famous Komodo Dragons.  Although we'll sail to Rinca ourselves we decided a tour with a bunch of other yachties will be good fun.