Hi everyone,
Since our last post we've been day-sailing westward through the eastern San Blas islands. It's been a lot of fun despite self-isolating due to Covid. Overall we've travelled from Puerto Obaldia at the Colombian border to BBQ Island, part of the Holandes Cays, at the eastern end of the western San Blas islands.
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| Overall tracks |
We've used Bauhaus's wonderful book "The Panama Cruising Guide" and the raster charts derived from it. We also used Navionics SonarCharts which appear accurate where boats have gone before, but not 'off the beaten track'. Together they have kept us off most reefs. But we have had a few surprises along the way. We've found ourselves in 3m of water several times where charted as 2-3 times that. And we've found ourselves in 8-10m where charted as 3-4 times that. Vigilance is very necessary at all times.
From Nianega we motored to Isla Pinos. The anchorage here is quite shallow but is very pretty. We were there with Cerulean, Avanti and Pachific. One night we were there gunshots were heard. Next morning the Ceruleans learned from a guide that a panther had swum from the mainland and been shot on the island. Panthers attack their livestock so the poor animal had to go.
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| Nianega to Isla Pinos track |
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| Isla Pinos arrival |
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| Isla Pinos English-speaking guide |
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| Isla Pinos |
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| With Cerulean at Isla Pinos |
Isla Pinos's anchorage was used by Sir Francis Drake and various pirates/privateers. It's fun imagining the sailing life in their day on this coast, just as we did sailing in James Cook's and Matthew Flinders's wake on the Australian coast.
From Islan Pinos we motor-sailed to Achutupu in company with Avanti and Pachific. It was a very close reach into about 20 knots of breeze. We set our storm staysail which helped us keep up with the bigger boats.
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| Isla Pinos to Achutupu track |
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| Achutupu arrival |
Achutupu was the only anchorage on this coast where we were not visited by Kuna people. Everywhere else we've paid either US$5 or US$10 anchorage fees and chatted with the locals. Each fee is valid for multiple nights and receipts were always provided.
From Achutupu we moved on to Mono Island. Another nice anchorage. We were again in company with Avanti and Pachific, and Cerulean joined us the following day. The wind had freed enough to sail. Very nice. We believe Avanti took photos and videos of us (as we did of them). Looking forward to seeing them - we've only ever had at-sea photos of Zen Again sailing once before!
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| Achutupu to Mono Island track |
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| Mono Island arrival |
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| Sailing from Ashutupu with sv Avanti & sv Pachific |
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| South African sv Avanti |
Mono Island was a nice anchorage. Like all preceding anchorages the bottom is mud and the water cloudy. So we didn't swim. Just as well with panthers in the water! ;)
From Mono Island we sailed to Snug Harbour. Another nice sail under yankee alone. When we started the engine to enter the harbour the raw water temperature alarm went off. We killed the engine and jilled around in clear water while checking the engine. We concluded the sensor is failing, as a previous one did in 2016. During the inspection we noticed our engine mounts are starting to fail. We're in touch with the supplier and will be treating the engine gently until they're replaced.
With checks complete we restarted the engine and entered the anchorage. Snug Harbour is a top spot. Apparently there's good snorkelling. The water clarity is moderate and we had a swim to give the hull and stern gear a clean.
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| Mono Island to Snug Harbour track |
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| Snug Harbour arrival |
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| In Snug Harbour |
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| Snug Harbour lobster! |
Soon after arriving a dugout appeared selling lobster and crab. We bought a big lobster for US$7. Had that for dinner! Another dugout with Molas arrived and we bought three from them - US$10 each for a panel and US$30 for a complete blouse. Molas are hand-embroidered reverse applique panels worn by Kuna women. Very colourful and unique to the Kuna.
The following day the Ceruleans again caught up with us. It was nice to have a sundowner with them aboard Zen Again - first time in ages due to our self-isolating. And the next morning they filled two water jerries for us from their water-maker filled tanks.
From Snug Harbour we had a proper 30nm sail to BBQ Island in Holandes Cays. The wind was NNE and we had to work hard to beat out into deep water from Snug Harbour. From there we zig-zagged WNW through several passes. It was a great sail.
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| Snug Harbour to BBQ Island track |
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| BBQ Island arrival |
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| Snug Harbour to BBQ Island graphs |
The entry to the eastern part of Holandes Cays is straight-forward, albeit with reefs close to port and starboard. They're very clear to see in good light. The anchorage off BBQ Island is quite shallow and we're in 3m over sand. Nice to be in a land of sandy bottoms with clear water. We had a dip soon after arriving to check the anchor and freshen up.
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| Approaching Holandes Cays |
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| Entering the harbour |
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| At anchor 400m from BBQ Island |
We expect to spend a few days here. We are still getting over our Covid coughs but are otherwise fit and well.
From here we expect to visit the Chichime Cays about 15nm west, then possibly Isla Porvenir. Beyond there we expect to head to Portobello for Christmas. We may stop in at Linton Bay marina if replacement engine mounts get there in time.
Trust all's well where you are!
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