Wednesday 28 December 2022

Western San Blas Cruise

Hi everyone,

Since our last post we spent two weeks in the Holandes Cays in the western San Blas islands.  It was a lot of fun despite battling with the aftermath of Covid.  At least we were no longer isolating and could enjoy Christmas with friends.  We were with SVs Cerulean, Ruffian, Avanti and Zelda to mention a few.  After a very pleasant Christmas we sailed to Linton Bay via Chichime Cays.

Zen Again in Banedup anchorage (sv Ruffian photo)

However, first some photos of Zen Again from SVs Pachific and Avanti.  This is only the second time we've received photos of Zen Again under sail.  Here we are enroute from Islas Pinos to Snug Harbour.

Sailing in Company (sv Avanti photo)

Sailing in Company (sv Pachific photo)

Sailing in Company (sv Avanti photo)

We spent a week anchored off BBQ Island.  We were alone for the first few days and still self-isolating. A great place for it!  Several fruit'n'veg boats come out to the islands to sell to cruisers.  Very nice produce indeed.  The Ceruleans arrived after a few days.  It was great to start socialising again.  We went ashore together for dinner at Iban's restaurant on Banedup Island.  Iban's sister makes wonderful molas.

Anchored S of BBQ Island

One of the fruit'n'veg boats

Ashore on Banedup Island

Iban's beachside restaurant

Banedup Island was devastated by a tsunami in 1882
This path commemorates the disaster

Another two marvellous Molas aboard

After a week at BBQ Island (aka 'Swimming Pool' anchorage) we moved to Banedup anchorage for one night then to the 'Hot Tub' anchorage for several days.  We were in a strong current there and added 6nm to the log due to the current.  We joined sv Ruffian there, who we hadn't seen since Dominica.  On the 23rd we returned to Banedup Island anchorage with Ruffian and Cerulean for Christmas.

It was nice to meet the crew of sv Altimate while here.  They are part of the Escapee Net we run on SSB and had only been voices previously.  Between Altimate, Cerulean and Ruffian we had several sundowners or other visits.  Zen Again was popular for our Starlink internet access since mobile coverage here is very poor.  We 'traded' internet access for water supplies.

Anchorage-hopping in the Eastern Holandes Cays

On the Beach

Beautiful Panama Sunsets

In the 'Hot Tub' with Cerulean and Ruffian

Banedup anchorage is mostly deep - we were in 12m - but there's little current.  So we spent several swimming session cleaning Zen Again's bottom.  Our strength was returning post-Covid at last!

On Christmas day we went ashore for lunch with Cerulean, Ruffian and Avanti.  Iban put on a marvellous meal for us all.  This was followed by a quiz and games organised by the Ceruleans.   The Zeldas arrived later and joined us all on Cerulean for a sundowner with Christmas cake and pudding.

Ashore for a fantastic Christmas lunch on Banedup Island

Fun and games after Christmas lunch

Christmas Sundowner on sv Cerulean
A full crew of OCC members

On Boxing Day morning we watched the start of the Rolex Sydney Hobart race, via Starlink.  It was great to be able to watch the event only a few hours after it happened.  Exciting start too!

That afternoon we followed Ruffian and Cerulean to Chichime Cays, 15nm west.  Great sail in a perfect breeze.  We anchored in the lagoon and had a good night's sleep after another sundowner on Cerulean.

Detail track of arrival/departure at Chichime Cays

The following morning we were up at dawn and chased Cerulean and Ruffian westward.  We had a perfect breeze for most of the passage.  But it gradually faded until at 4G7 the motor went on for the last 3nm.  We anchored 

Sayonara San Blas

sv Ruffian of Amble

Approaching Linton Bay

Anchored in Linton Bay

Linton Bay arrival track

Chichime to Linton Bay Graphs

Overall tracks from Holandes Cays to Linton Bay

Our cruise of the San Blas was great.  The east is remote, historic and provides the best view of Kuna culture.  The west is less remote, beautiful and has the iconic sandy beaches, palm trees and great snorkelling.

We expect to move into Linton Bay Marina soon.  We have various maintenance tasks to attend to.  More on that soon.  Hope you had a Happy Christmas!


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