Flores to Horta

Hi everyone,

We had a great 130nm passage from Lajes in Flores to Horta in Faial.  Mostly sunny skies with nearby rain showers on departure and around midnight.  We had 10-15 knots of WSW all day and until 0200 at night.  Then the wind died after a brief shower so we motored the rest of the way.

Under full sail

Here are the usual plots...

Track

Arrival

Graphs

Two other boats left Flores within an hour or two of us.  One was a largish catamaran and the other a Boreal 49 monohull.  We beat them both to Horta.  Zen Again loves a 10-15 knot reach!  This was a rare occasion when we carried full sail.  Great 26 hour passage.

Farewell Flores

Along the way we noticed the AIS range was unusually long.  We could see boats in Horta harbour from over 60nm away...

60nm+ AIS range

With possible overnight rain showers forecast we reefed the main for the night.  Zen Again was still doing 6+ knots under full yankee and single-reefed main.  But after midnight and a brief shower the wind died and the motor got a run.

First reef for the night

Early morning approach to Faial

Approaching Horta

Preparing to anchor

It was great to make landfall in Horta again.  Our previous visit was in 2016 on our way to the UK.  We loved it so much we decided to do our current North Atlantic circuit.

Zen Again in Horta with Pico in background

We're joining an OCC cruise in company here which will tour the Macaronesian Islands (Azores, Madeira & Canaries - who knew?).  This will keep us busy for the next two months.

Within an hour of arriving we were cleared-in for 90 days in the Schengen Zone  Neither St Pierre nor Flores are in Schengen.  We may fly to the UK for a few weeks after the OCC cruise to extend our Schengen departure into December for our next Atlantic crossing.

The Harbour Master noted that this is the first year he's had visitors anchored in the harbour in late-August.  Normally they've departed eastward.  A marina spot would cost us E20/night and it's half that at anchor.  We may treat ourselves to a couple of nights in the marina to join the other OCC boats.

Trust all's well where you are!

Faial

Hi everyone,

We spent a week anchored in Horta harbour on the island of Faial.  Horta was the starting point for the OCC 70th anniversary Macaronesia cruise in company.  We met the crews of SVs Caballito da Mar IX, Coromandel, Metzi and Photon Infinity soon after arriving.  The others arrived around the same time as us, but from the Canaries, Azores and Europe.  We spent a great week exploring the town and island together.

Zen Again in Horta Harbour

A focal point for sailors in Horta is the famous Peter's Sport Cafe.  There's a long relationship between the cafe owners and the OCC so we were made very welcome.

The Cafe

View over the marina and harbour towards Pico

A get-together at Peter's

One day we taxied up to the Botanical Gardens.  Interesting place with lots to see including many orchids.

From the Gardens we walked back to Horta.  A park in town had several Black Swans which reminded us of home.

Black Swans in Horta park

Another day we did a half-day minibus tour of Faial, briefly seeing most of the key spots around the island.

Cruisers in Company

View of Horta from the North

Caldera

Selfie!

View down a river gorge on the North coast

Old lighthouse partly buried by 1950s eruption at Ponta dos Capelinhos

Ponta dos Capelinhos

Towards the end of our stay we had the 'official launch' dinner for the cruise.  It was of course at Peter's Cafe Sport.  We had a great dinner with Jose shouting us the first round of drinks and giving each boat a 'show bag' with postcards, burgee and a bottle of Peter's gin.  A great night.  We gave Jose a well-used OCC burgee from our last two year's cruising.

Dinner at Peter's

Zen Again OCC burgee on the wall at Peter's

A Great Night!

The following day we walked around Monte da Guia to Porto Pim where there's a nice black sand swimming beach and several cafes.

View from Monte da Guia

Porto Pim

On our final day in Faial the cruising gang taxied up to the Caldera to walk the rim.  We were very lucky with the weather and had a great walk.

We're so glad we decided to do an Atlantic Circuit to revisit the Azores and Canaries.  Doing it with the OCC cruise in company has made it even more fun, and we're just getting started!

Azores Arrival

Hi everyone,

We arrived in Horta at 1345 local summer time (=GMT), after a 16 day passage from Bermuda.  Entry to the harbour was straight-forward and we anchored at the southern end.  We dinghied ashore to clear in which was simple and cost the princely sum of 2 Euros.  It was a lovely sunny day.

Yesterday afternoon we had a pleasant sail with winds gradually easing in the afternoon and overnight.  By 0600 there was very little wind and an awkward swell so we motored the last 20nm to Horta.  As the screenshot below shows, there were plenty of vessels converging on Horta.

Heading for Horta, with company!

After clearing in we went for a quick walk around the local area.  First we found Peter's Sports Bar and for 10 Euros had a pint of beer, a gin & tonic, two bottles of sparkling water and two sandwiches.  Great value.  Peter's is decorated with flags and burgees from yacht clubs all over the world.  We didn't spot a FSC burgee so may donate one.

From Peter's we walked to the chandlers where we bought Portuguese and Azores courtesy flags.  Then to the small dockside supermarket for bread and back to the boat.  En route we visited Australian yacht Tuuletar and had a chat with them before returning to Zen Again.

Back aboard we set to work on the post-arrival list.  So far we have….

• Filled the main fuel tanks from jerries (60 litres)
• Partially filled the main water tanks from jerries (60 litres, probably need another 40 litres to fill)
• Drained the space under the chain locker
• Big clean-up below decks (to be continued)
• Washed all s/s on deck
• Washed harness tethers and sail ties
• Cleaned lazarette
• Aired bunk cushions and various towels, rugs etc

Tomorrow we plan to continue cleaning the boat and will further explore Horta.  Apparently there is a very good supermarket a 20 minute walk away.  And we'll find the showers - well overdue - and sort out WiFi access.    Tomorrow I also hope to post a passage summary.

Azores - A Day Trip Around Faial

Hi everyone,
On Tuesday we rented a scooter and explored the island of Faial.  It was great fun driving around the island.  Very scenic.  Lots of flowers.  Lots of spectacular views.  We finished the day by walking the 8km caldera rim of the island's main volcano.

View of the neighbouring island of Pico with its impressive volcano

Before describing the island here are several photos from around Horta.

Yacht paintings around the periphery of the harbour

and on the sea wall

Horta town hall

From Horta we drove around the island "clockwise".  Our first stop was at Morro do Castelo Branco, an impressive volcanic trachyte dome covered by pyroclastic rocks (so sayeth the brochure!).  We had a nice walk down to the point, past small farming fields separated by tall bamboo hedges.

Morro do Castelo Branco

Our next stop was at Ponta dos Capelinhos, the site of a 1957 volcanic eruption which extended the island westward and "moved" the lighthouse inland.  The whole area is a "moonscape".  A visitor centre has been constructed, buried in the volcanic dust field.

Ponta dos Capelinhos

The old lighthouse

Underground visitor centre

From Ponta dos Capelinhos we drove along the north coast.  By this time the cloud was clearing and we started to see the true colours of the island.  The vegetation is lush to say the least.  Lots of happy cattle grazing.

Typical roadside view

View from the hills above Horta

The drive up to the rim of the caldera was fun.  It was distinctly chillier than at sea level.  At the top we decided to walk right around it.  The walk is described as "difficult" but it's really not.  At 8km it is a good workout, especially considering the ups and downs along the way.  But it is certainly worth the effort - the views are spectacular.

View of the volcano on Pico Island over that on Faial

Typical view down towards the coast

Alpine strawberries just starting to appear

The vegetation around the rim includes cedars, junipers, myrtles, ferns and mosses.

Along the way around the island we stopped at several cafes and a restaurant for lunch.  The local people are very friendly and many speak good English.  Food is extremely cheap.

It was a fun day.  A few blisters but definitely worthwhile!